Amsterdam

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Amsterdam bars

While crawling around Amsterdam's bars a visitor may find time to question that other type of Dutch cap, frothing at the top of his glass. But rest assured: there's a rationale behind serving beer with two fingers of foam on top. Also never failing to take visitors by surprise is the inherent slow service. Whilst Haarlem might be just up the road, this ain't New York.

However, muster patience and you’ll discover that Amsterdam’s canals run with gold, and that’s even before the nocturnal stagger home when so often the waters internal and external are joined. After all, the Dutch built this city on beer and its bars reflect that in their variety. Most common is the bruin café or brown bar, so called because over the years, nicotine has stained their walls. Wood, warmth and well-worn gezelligheid (a uniquely Dutch brand of social cosiness) typify the best. They usually have a good range of local and national brews, but uncompromising enthusiasts should head to specialist purveyors such as ’t Arendsnest or In de Wildeman. For fine, locally-produced beer, take a trip to De Bekeerde Suster or Brouwerij ’t IJ. However, there’s much more to Amsterdam’s bars than boozing. Some simply ooze history, like In ’t Aepjen or In de Waag. Others preserve an important Dutch tradition. For instance, a proeflokaal (a tasting house) specialises in jenever (a gin-like spirit made from juniper berries), brandewijn (literally, burnt – or distilled – wine) and other old Dutch liquors. The best place to get a taste for tasting houses is undoubtedly Wynand Fockink.

Recent years have seen a trend towards lounge bar louche and the emergence of DJ bars such as Café Tetra, Twstd, Café Vaaghuyzen, and Vibing. But thankfully, other types of bar – geared towards the political, literary, musical, trad or mad – are still out there. Outdoor terraces – which enhance the drinking experience – abound for the larger part of the year (many are heated in an effort to stave off winter’s approach) – but leave the city looking a little desolate in the colder months. But don’t despair: it’s the ideal time to hole up in a bar with a hot chocolate and whisky and discover the true meaning of gezilligheid.

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