Festivals & events in Amsterdam

Though they're generally reserved, the Dutch do often shed their inhibitions in fun-seeking frenzies. On the likes of Oudejaarsavond (New Year's Eve) and Koninginnedag (Queen's Day) and Orange for all, and whenever Ajax win a big game, the city falls into an orange-tinted psychosis of song, drink and dance.  Not every event is so booze-dependent: check out the Dam tot Damloop, Museum Night or Open Monument Days. That said, could the High Times Cannabis Cup really be held anywhere else?

Critic's choice

Amsterdam Dance Event

Where: various venues in Amsterdam
When: mid Oct
Tel & website: 035 621 8748/www.amsterdam-dance-event.nl
The organisers claim that this festival, which draws 30,000 each year, is the world’s biggest festival of clubbing. It combines business with pleasure: during the day, there are conferences and workshops, while at night, roughly international 400 acts and DJs make sure your feet don’t stay still.

Amsterdam Gay Pride

Where: Prinsengracht, Canal Belt
When: 1st Sat in Aug
Tel & website: 620 8807/www.amsterdampride.nl
Though Gay Pride is always surrounded by drama and controversy, whether around money, politics or big egos, the atmosphere is just fabulouslytastic dahlink during the spectacular boat parade. Around 250,000 spectators line the Prinsengracht to watch the 80 boats, all with garish decorations and loud sound systems crewed by bare-chested sailors. It's the climax to a whole weekend of activities; check the website for the full array of what's on offer.

Crossing Border

Where: various venues in the Hague
When: Oct/Nov
Tel & website: 70 346 2355/www.crossingborder.nl
This festival is a crossover between writers, poets and musicians, but puts words before melody. It's held in the Hague city centre, only a 45-minute train trip away; Many well-known international authors and artists come to perform and in past years have included Razorlight, David Byrne, David Sedaris, Henry Rollins, Robert Crumb, Norman Mailer, Dave Eggers, Jill Scott and Irvine Welsh.

De Parade

Where: Martin Luther Kingpark, Zuid
When: 1st 2wks in Aug
Tel & website: 033 465 4555/www.deparade.nl
When this travelling show (Rotterdam, the Hague and Utrecht are also on their route) lands in the city, locals flock en masse to sip litres of rosé, hang out in a beer garden and catch an act (cabaret, music, comedy, drama) in one of the many kitschly decorated tents that gives the whole thing a vibe of ancient carnivals. Afternoons are child-friendly.

International Documentary Filmfestival Amsterdam (IDFA)

Where: various venues in Amsterdam
When: last wk in Nov
Tel & website: 627 3329/www.idfa.nl
The biggest documentary film festival in the world, the IDFA enjoys friendly competition with the more edgy Shadow Festival (www.shadowfestival.nl).

Koninginnedag (Queen's Day)

Where: around Amsterdam
When: 30 Apr
The most popular event in the city actually kicks off the night before, with street parties and late-night drinking sessions in cafés. The date in question was the late Queen Juliana's birthday and not that of Beatrix, but it doesn't matter: locals and tourists still crowd the streets in search of a bargain (there's a huge open-air market where people are allowed to sell their attic junk), and to sing and dance. The best areas to experience the festivities are the Jordaan, Rembrandtplein and the centre; Vondelpark is for the kids.

Kunstvlaai

Where: Westergasfabriek
When: biannual – check website as dates vary each year
Tel & website: 588 2400/www.sandberg.nl/www.kunstvlaai.nl
This edgy art market was the answer to the more commercial KunstRAI, now Art Amsterdam, but now works in collaboration with its erstwhile rival. It focuses on new and more original artists, groups and galleries.

Museum Night

Where: various venues in Amsterdam
When: Nov
Tel & website: 621 1311/www.n8.nl
The success of this night (tickets sell fast) shows that the locals like to mix art with entertainment. Almost every museum and gallery in town opens late and organises something special to complement the regular exhibits. You might watch Kirk Douglas as Vincent in Lust for Life at the Van Gogh Museum, or dance the night away in the shadow of Rembrandt's Night Watch.

Open Monument Days

Where: around Amsterdam
When: 2nd weekend in Sept
Tel & website: 552 4888/www.openmonumentendag.nl
'Heritage Days', as it's officially called, gives you the chance to visit buildings that are normally closed to the public. Some are breathtaking historic buildings from the Golden Age; others, though, are schools, industrial buildings (old factories, say) or even farms. The event is defined by a different theme each year. Look out for the Monumenten flag, check the website or pick up a brochure at the VVV. Don't worry if you happen to be out of town: roughly 85 per cent of Dutch municipalities participate.

Oudejaarsavond (New Year's Eve)

Where: around Amsterdam
When: 31 Dec
No, you haven't got off the wrong train or plane, and you're not in a war zone: New Year's Eve is a riot of champagne, oliebollen (greasy deep-fried blobs of dough, apple and raisins), and tons and tons of scary fireworks that officially only go on sale the day before. Come midnight, people take to the streets (and bars, many of which only open at midnight) to celebrate. The best areas to visit are Nieuwmarkt and Dam Square; the latter often stages a big council-sponsored concert, with Dutch acts and DJs to help keep things moving.

SAIL

Where: around Amsterdam
When: every five years. Next event 19-23 Aug 2010
Tel & website: 681 1804/www.sail-amsterdam.nl
An event that started in 1975 to celebrate the city's 700th birthday has turned into the largest nautical gathering in Europe. An extraordinary 2.5 million visitors stroll along Oostelijke Handelskade every five years, admiring dozens of tall ships and thousands of more modern boats. The flotilla of related events includes music, food, extreme sports and art.

Vondelpark Openluchttheather

Where: Vondelpark
When: early June-mid Aug
Website: www.vondelpark.nl
Each year in the summer months, the big open-air stage in the popular park is used to the max. Tuesday is classical music, Friday is dancing, Saturday afternoon is for kids, Saturday evenings are for stand-up and Sunday is for pop music. It's great to watch and dance, or just to chill and relax: few places capture the laid-back vibe of Amsterdam in the summer with quite such conviction. To find out who's playing when, check out the posters at the gates or look online.

World Press Photo

Where: Oude Kerk
When: mid Apr
Tel & website: 625 8284/www.worldpressphoto.nl
Running since 1955, this is the world's largest photography competition, and includes exhibits from thousands of photojournalists. The exhibition is held in the Oude Kerk; after kicking off in Amsterdam, it goes on tour to another 70 locations around the world. A book containing the prize-winning entries is published each year.

Spring

Amsterdam Restaurant Week

Where: various venues in Amsterdam
When: Mar
Website: www.restaurantweek.nl
A three-course gourmet meal in a top restaurant for only €25? Only in Amsterdam Restaurant Week. Just like in New York, where the idea originated, local restaurant owners think this is a great way to promote their businesses, especially since January and February are slow months in food-land. The food isn't fast, but your reservation should be: tables get booked up very quickly.

Stille Omgang (Silent Procession)

Where: starts at Spui, Begijnhof
When: weekend after 10 Mar
Website: www.stille-omgang.nl
This singular annual event commemorates the 1345 'Miracle of Amsterdam'. A sick man, thought to be dying, was being administered the last rites, at which point which he vomited. Since he had already been given the viaticum, what was thrown up was put into the fire. But the Blessed Sacrament was discovered the next day, undamaged by fire or digestion, and the man miraculously recovered. Every year since, local Catholics make a silent nocturnal walk that begins and ends at Spui. The candlelit procession through the Red Light District at night is both a surreal and extremely moving experience.

Amnesty International Film Festival

Where:various venues in Amsterdam
When: Mar-Apr
Tel & website: 773 3621/www.amnesty.nl/filmfestival
This five-day biennial event on human rights features films, lectures, discussions and a workshop.

London Calling

Where: Paradiso
When: late Mar, mid Nov
Website: www.londoncalling.nl
The twice-yearly London Calling concerts are often the first opportunity for Dutch audiences to catch the hottest new rock and pop talents from the UK. Thanks to its increasing popularity, additional specials have been creeping on to the calendar.

Motel Mozaique

Where: Rotterdam
When: mid Apr
Website: www.motelmozaique.nl
Rotterdam hosts this spectacular three-day festival blending music, theatre, art and hospitality. Expect an edgy line-up and hordes of hipsters wandering happily between venues. You can even stay on site: each year sees new weird and wonderful sleeping concepts, though places are limited.

World Press Photo

Where: Oude Kerk
When: mid Apr
Tel & website: 625 8284/www.worldpressphoto.nl
Running since 1955, this is the world's largest photography competition, and includes exhibits from thousands of photojournalists. The exhibition is held in the Oude Kerk; after kicking off in Amsterdam, it goes on tour to another 70 locations around the world. A book containing the prize-winning entries is published each year.

National Museum Weekend

Where: around the Netherlands
When: early-mid Apr 
Website: www.museumweekend.nl
Around a million visitors flock to one or more of the 500 state-funded museums, which offer free or discounted admission and special activities during National Museum Weekend. To find out where to go, simply pick up the NMW newspaper at any of the major museums.

Amsterdam Fantastic Film Festival

Where: various venues in Amsterdam
When: Apr
Tel & website: 679 4875/www.afff.nl

The AFFF is a must for lovers of fantastic cinema, with generous amounts of gore playing alongside child-friendly fantasy and lots more besides.

Koninginnedag (Queen's Day)

Where: around the city
When: 30 Apr
The most popular event in the city actually kicks off the night before, with street parties and late-night drinking sessions in cafés. The date in question was the late Queen Juliana's birthday and not that of Beatrix, but it doesn't matter: locals and tourists still crowd the streets in search of a bargain (there's a huge open-air market where people are allowed to sell their attic junk), and to sing and dance. The best areas to experience the festivities are the Jordaan, Rembrandtplein and the centre; Vondelpark is for the kids.

Herdenkingsdag (Remembrance Day)

Where: Remembrance Day National Monument, Dam
When: 4 May
In the presence of the Queen and many dignitaries, those who lost their lives during World War II are remembered at the National Monument on Dam Square on 4 May at 7.30pm. After the laying of wreaths, there's a two-minute silence at 8pm. Gays and lesbians have their own ceremony at a remembrance service at the Homomonument and there are also other ceremonies in various quarters around the city.

Bevrijdingsdag (Liberation Day)

Where: Vondelpark & Oosterpark (link to venue)
When: 5 May
Website: www.oosterparkfestival.nl
Liberation Day is celebrated on 5 May with music and speeches. There's also a market where you can sell the unwanted junk you bought while drunk on Queen's Day a week earlier. The best areas for visitors are Museumplein, Leidseplein and Westermarkt, the focal point of the gay commemorations. In Oosterpark, in the culturally varied east of Amsterdam, the Oosterparkfestival is all about emphasising community between different nationalities through the shared mediums of music, cultural customs, sports and food.

National Windmill Day

Where: around the Netherlands
When: 2nd Sat in May
Got a windmill on your mind? On this day, about 600 state-subsidised windmills spin their sails and open to the public. Most of them have demonstrations and activities; you can even buy products such as flour and mill bread made the traditional way.

National Cycling Day

Where: around the Netherlands
When: late May
On your marks, get set, go! Roughly 200,000 cyclists spin their wheels around 200 special cycle routes of varying lengths and difficulty, making this a day for both fiets fanatics and families.

Art Amsterdam

Where: RAI Congresgebouw
When: mid May-early June
Tel & website: 549 1212/www.kunstrai.nl
A hundred or so galleries, both national and international, present their artists' work at this huge commercial five-day exhibition (formerly known as KunstRAI). Expect everything from ceramics and jewellery to paintings and sculptures.

Kunstvlaai

Where: Westergasfabriek
When:  biannual – check website as dates vary each year
Tel & Website: 588 2400/www.sandberg.nl/www.kunstvlaai.nl
This edgy art market was the answer to the more commercial KunstRAI, now Art Amsterdam (see above), but now works in collaboration with its erstwhile rival. It focuses on new and more original artists, groups and galleries.

Open Ateliers (Open Studios): Kunstroute de Westelijke Eilanden

Where: Prinseneiland, Bickerseiland & Realeneiland
When: mid May
Tel & website: 627 1238/www.oawe.nl
Neighbourhoods with populations of artists and artists' studio complexes, among them the Jordaan and the Pijp, hold open days in spring and autumn, when dozens of artists (both starving and successful) open their doors to the public over the course of a weekend. The annual Westelijke Eilanden is the most popular: situated on the picturesque and peaceful islands around Prinseneiland, the streets are all connected by traditional 'skinny bridges'.

Europerve

Where: information: Demask
When: May
Tel & website: 620 5603/www.demask.com
The reputation of this wicked evening attracts an international crowd for whom nothing is too bizarre or too kinky. What started out as an opening party for the shop Demask in 1990 has gone big and gone global, and now includes DJs, performances, fashion shows, dancing, naughty games and friction fun. There's a large play area for the publicly inclined. Leather, latex, PVC and/or adult-sized nappies are required dress. A bizarre experience that will baffle the uninitiated.

Pinkpop

Where: out of town
When: May/June
Website: www.pinkpop.nl
Attracting a slightly younger and poppier crowd than A Camping Flight to the Lowlands, Pinkpop, staged down in the southern tip of the country, is somewhat less adventurous than its indie sister. Still, there are plenty of big names in the worlds of pop, rock, dance and metal at the three-day event. Just remember to wear something pink...

Summer

Holland Festival

Where: Stadsschouwburg, Leidseplein, Southern Canal Belt
When: early-mid June
Tel & website: 530 7110/www.hollandfestival.nl
In 2007, this hugely popular festival of the arts celebrated its 60th anniversary. On the menu are art, dance, opera, theatre, literature and a whole lot more.
There's no doubting that music is its central theme, particularly in the realms of contemporary classical, experimental and electronic music. Attracting international stars and composers each year, you're guaranteed a series of groundbreaking premieres and reworkings that'll move on to make waves in other cultural capitals around the world. The programme includes both mainstream and oddball works, and is held in the Stadsschouwburg and other venues such as Westergasfabriek and Het Muziektheater.
Tickets go on sale months before the event: in 2007, they were offered as early as March, so do check the online reservation service or head to the venue in plenty of time.

Amsterdam Roots Festival

Where: around Amsterdam
When: June
Website: www.amsterdamroots.nl
This festival brings some of the best world music acts to Amsterdam every year.

Vondelpark Openluchttheather

Where: Vondelpark
When: early June-mid Aug
Website: www.vondelpark.nl
Each year in the summer months, the big open-air stage in the popular park is used to the max. Tuesday is classical music, Friday is dancing, Saturday afternoon is for kids, Saturday evenings are for stand-up and Sunday is for pop music. It's great to watch and dance, or just to chill and relax: few places capture the laid-back vibe of Amsterdam in the summer with quite such conviction. To find out who's playing when, check out the posters at the gates or look online.

Canal Gardens in Bloom

Where: around Amsterdam
When: mid June
Website: www.amsterdamsegrachtentuin.nl

This event sees owners of the beautiful, hidden gardens behind posh canal houses open their doors, giving the public a chance to have a peek at these stunning secret gems. Dogs and prams are sadly not allowed and wheelchair access is almost impossible.

Parkpop

Where: The Hague
When: late June
Website: www.parkpop.nl
Loads of European cities claim to hold the largest free festival. Parkpop, in the Hague, is the Dutch contender: organisers usually expect 300,000 to 500,000 visitors for this family-type affair. Expect some surprisingly big international names, popular Dutch acts and upcoming urban outfits across the event's three side-by-side stages.

Amsterdam International Fashion Week

Where: Westergasfabriek
When: Jan, July
Webite: www.aifw.nl
Twice a year, in summer and winter, aspiring designers and those who've already made it show their new collections at the Westergasfabriek. Sip cocktails and marvel at the models on show.

North Sea Jazz

Where: Rotterdam
When: mid July
Tel & website: 0900 300 1250/www.northseajazz.nl
This three-day mega-event is a favourite among Dutch jazz fans and outsiders. Staging marvellous big-name line-ups (around 180 acts) and drawing 23,000 visitors per day, the festival has now settled into the Ahoy' complex in the south of Rotterdam. It's hardly the most attractive of locations, but it has allowed breathing space for further growth.

De Parade

Where: Martin Luther Kingpark, Zuid
When: 1st 2wks in Aug (3pm-1am Mon-Thur, Sun; 3pm-2am Fri, Sat)
Tel & website: 033 465 4555/www.deparade.nl
When this travelling show (Rotterdam, the Hague and Utrecht are also on their route) lands in the city, locals flock en masse to sip litres of rosé, hang out in a beer garden and catch an act (cabaret, music, comedy, drama) in one of the many kitschly decorated tents that gives the whole thing a vibe of ancient carnivals. Afternoons are child-friendly.

Amsterdam Gay Pride

Where: Prinsengracht, Canal Belt
When: 1st Sat in Aug 2-5pm
Tel & website: 620 8807/www.amsterdampride.nl
Though Gay Pride is always surrounded by drama and controversy, whether around money, politics or big egos, the atmosphere is just fabulouslytastic dahlink during the spectacular boat parade. Around 250,000 spectators line the Prinsengracht to watch the 80 boats, all with garish decorations and loud sound systems crewed by bare-chested sailors. It's the climax to a whole weekend of activities; check the website for the full array of what's on offer.

Appelsap

Where: Oosterpark, Oost
When: mid Aug
Website: www.appelsap.net
This free outdoor hip hop festival is organised by Appelsap, who also run club nights and parties. No matter the unpredictable weather, the atmosphere is always hot, with a programme of up-and-coming artists and some local favourites.

Hartjesdag

Where: Zeedijk, Old Centre: Old Side
When: mid Aug
Tel & website: 625 8467/www.hartjesdagen.nl
An ancient Amsterdam celebration from the Middle Ages, 'Hearts Day' was held on the last Monday of August and involved much drinking, cross-dressing and firecrackers. It was in abeyance for decades after the Germans banned it in 1943 but was resurrected in 1997 on the initiative of local shopkeepers, once the formerly seedy street had been cleaned up and rid of druggies, and now focuses primarily on the boozing and dressing-up side of things. Though not a drag queen festival, it's predictably popular with the city's transvestite population, as are its associated theatrical and music events.

Grachtenfestival

Where: various venues in Amsterdam
When: mid Aug
Tel & website: 421 4542/www.grachtenfestival.nl
What started out as a single free concert from an orchestra floating on a pontoon in front of the Hotel Pulitzer has grown into the 'Canal Festival'. Handel would be delighted to hear that this modern water music has expanded to more than 90 concerts, each set somewhere near or on the water.

SAIL

Where: around Amsterdam
When: 19-23 Aug 2010
Tel & website: 681 1804/www.sail-amsterdam.nl
An event that started in 1975 to celebrate the city's 700th birthday has turned into the largest nautical gathering in Europe. An extraordinary 2.5 million visitors stroll along Oostelijke Handelskade every five years (it's next due in 2010), admiring dozens of tall ships and thousands of more modern boats. The flotilla of related events includes music, food, extreme sports and art.

Open Haven Podium

Where: on and around Java-eiland
When: mid Aug
Tel & website: 423 5615/www.openhavenpodium.nl
Whether or not you go by boat, the western tip of Java-eiland is the place to head in August for an array of harbour-themed art, music, theatre and children's activities. Delightfully, it's all organised by the bars, theatres and galleries in the immediate neighbourhood.

A Camping Flight to Lowlands

Where: 2 hrs out of Amsterdam
When: late Aug
Website: www.lowlands.nl
The best place to bid farewell to summer is in the Lowlands. Holland's largest alternative music festival takes place over three days, attracting up to 60,000 young hipsters on each. The music, theatre acts and street performers create a lively atmosphere, and weather is largely unimportant - all the important stages are inside huge tents. Those seeking extra adventure can buy a ticket that includes entry to the Walibi World amusement park, which sits next to the festival site. All told, it's the closest thing Amsterdam has to a Glastonbury of its own. Long may it continue to thrive.

Uitmarkt

Where: various locations around Amsterdam
When: last weekend in Aug
Website: www.uitmarkt.nl
From Friday to Sunday, the chaotic Uitmarkt previews the coming cultural season with foretastes of theatre, opera, dance and music events. It's all free, and as such it gets very crowded.

Holland Festival Oude Muziek Utrecht

Where: various venues in Utrecht
When: late Aug-early Sept
Tel & website: 030 232 9010/www.oudemuziek.nl
Top baroque and classical artists converge on Utrecht each year. The festival is a staple of the season in the Netherlands because the use of period instruments allows aficionados to hear the music of Bach, Mozart or Handel as the composer intended.

Autumn

International Gaudeamus Music Week

Where: various venues in Amsterdam
When: early Sept
Tel & website: 519 1800/www.gaudeamus.nl
An international competition for young composers organised by the Centre for Contemporary Music, the week includes intense discussion of the state of the art and performances of selected works.

Open Monument Days

Where: around Amsterdam
When: 2nd weekend in Sept
Tel & website: 552 4888/www.openmonumentendag.nl
'Heritage Days', as it's officially called, gives you the chance to visit buildings that are normally closed to the public. Some are breathtaking historic buildings from the Golden Age; others, though, are schools, industrial buildings (old factories, say) or even farms. The event is defined by a different theme each year. Look out for the Monumenten flag, check the website or pick up a brochure at the VVV. Don't worry if you happen to be out of town: roughly 85 per cent of Dutch municipalities participate.

Dam tot Damloop

Where: Prins Hendrikkade in Amsterdam, to Peperstraat in Zaandam
When: 3rd Sun in Sept
Tel & website: 72 533 8136/www.damloop.nl
The annual 'Dam to Dam Run' stretches 16.1km (ten miles) from Amsterdam to Zaandam, including running through the IJ tunnel and then back again. Up to 200,000 people gather to watch the 30,000 participants trying to finish in the two-hour limit. If you're not a world-class athlete, you can participate in the recreational four-mile mini-marathon. Bands line the route along the way and there's a circus in Zaandam to keep the little ones amused.

High Times Cannabis Cup

Where: Melkweg
When: Nov
Tel & website: 531 8181/www.cannabiscup.com
In the past few years, the city council has become less easygoing when it comes to coffeeshops and other soft drugs. However, no restrictions are made for the annual High Times contest, where all things related to wastedness are celebrated over five days. There are banquets, bands, cultivation seminars and a competition where hundreds of judges (including you, if you wish) ascertain which of the hundreds of weeds are the wickedest, dude. The event is scattered all over town (as, frankly, are the minds of the participants), but it's invariably focused on the Melkweg at night.

Crossing Borders

Where: various locations in the Hague
When: Oct/Nov
Tel & website: 70 346 2355/www.crossingborder.nl
This festival is a crossover between writers, poets and musicians, but puts words before melody. It's held in the Hague city centre, only a 45-minute train trip away; Many well-known international authors and artists come to perform and in past years have included Razorlight, David Byrne, David Sedaris, Henry Rollins, Robert Crumb, Norman Mailer, Dave Eggers, Jill Scott and Irvine Welsh.

Amsterdam Dance Event

Where: around Amsterdam
When: mid Oct
Tel & website: 035 621 8748/www.amsterdam-dance-event.nl
The organisers claim that this festival, which draws 30,000 each year, is the world's biggest festival of clubbing. It combines business with pleasure: during the day, there are conferences and workshops, while at night, roughly international 400 acts and DJs make sure your feet don't stay still.

Bock Beer Festival

Where: Beurs van Berlage
When: late Oct
Tel & website: 277 (530 4141/www.beursvanberlage.nl/www.pint.nl
The former stock exchange (see p84 LINK) is the site of this annual, three-day celebration of seasonal beer. Though there are performances, the real reason to visit is to taste some of the 50 or so different varieties of this full-bodied, slightly sweet and usually dark beer of German origin. Boozehounds should also check the PINT website above for details of other local beer festivals.

Museum Night

Where: around Amsterdam
When: Nov
Tel & website: 621 1311/www.n8.nl
The success of this night (tickets sell fast) shows that the locals like to mix art with entertainment. Almost every museum and gallery in town opens late and organises something special to complement the regular exhibits. You might watch Kirk Douglas as Vincent in Lust for Life at the Van Gogh Museum, or dance the night away in the shadow of Rembrandt's Night Watch.

London Calling

Where: Paradiso
When: late Mar, mid Nov
Website: www.londoncalling.nl
The twice-yearly London Calling concerts are often the first opportunity for Dutch audiences to catch the hottest new rock and pop talents from the UK. Thanks to its increasing popularity, additional specials have been creeping on to the calendar.

International Documentary Filmfestival Amsterdam (IDFA)

Where: various venues in Amsterdam
When: last week in Nov
Tel & website: 627 3329/www.idfa.nl
The biggest documentary film festival in the world, the IDFA enjoys friendly competition with the more edgy Shadow Festival (www.shadowfestival.nl).

Winter

Sinterklaas

Where: around Amsterdam
When: 5, 6 Dec
While St Nicholas, aka Sinterklaas, is directing his Black Peter helpers down chimneys on the eve of his feast day (6 December), families celebrate by exchanging small gifts and poems. The tradition started when the Church decided to tame the riot and disorder that had always accompanied the end of the slaughter season. It began by ruling that the traditional celebration should be based around the birthday of St Nicholas, the patron saint of children (and, for that matter, of prostitutes, of thieves and of Amsterdam itself); a once-violent tradition was reborn as a Christian family feast. Sinterklaas eventually emigrated to the States, changed his name to Santa Claus and gave out presents on 25 December.

Oudejaarsavond (New Year's Eve)

Where: around Amsterdam
When: 31 Dec
No, you haven't got off the wrong train or plane, and you're not in a war zone: New Year's Eve is a riot of champagne, oliebollen (greasy deep-fried blobs of dough, apple and raisins), and tons and tons of scary fireworks that officially only go on sale the day before. Come midnight, people take to the streets (and bars, many of which only open at midnight) to celebrate. The best areas to visit are Nieuwmarkt and Dam Square; the latter often stages a big council-sponsored concert, with Dutch acts and DJs to help keep things moving.

Noorderslag Weekend

When: mid Jan
Website: www.noorderslag.nl
A rare midwinter fest stretched over three days in Groningen, Noorderslag Weekend is for those seriously into the rock and pop scenes. An international industry showcase, the first two days fall under the name Eurosonic and are all about acts expected to make an impact across Europe in the coming year. The final night, Noorderslag itself, celebrates homegrown artists both old and new.

Chinese New Year

Where: Nieuwmarkt, Old Centre: Old Side
When: late Jan/early Feb
Tel & website: 06 2476 0060/www.zeedijk.nl
The Nieuwmarkt is a focal point for Amsterdam's Chinatown, complete with restaurants, a temple and a fantastic supermarket selling all things Asian. Chinese New Year is welcomed during the daytime with lion dances, firecrackers, and Chinese drums and gongs.

Amsterdam International Fashion Week

Where: Westergasfabriek
When: Jan, July
Webite: www.aifw.nl
Twice a year, in summer and winter, aspiring designers and those who've already made it show their new collections at the Westergasfabriek. Sip cocktails and marvel at the models on show.

International Film Festival Rotterdam

Where: Rotterdam
When: late Jan/early Feb
Tel & website: Information 010 890 9090/reservations 010 890 9000/www.filmfestivalrotterdam.com
Although it doesn't take place in Amsterdam, the Netherlands' biggest film festival is just an hour's train journey away, and attracts around 360,000 visitors to its programme of 250-odd films.

Public holidays

New Year's Day 1 Jan.
Good Friday.
Easter Sunday and Monday.
Koninginnedag (Queen's Day).
Remembrance Day 4 May.
Liberation Day 5 May.
Ascention Day.
Whit (Pentecost) Sunday and Monday.
Christmas Day 25 Dec.
Boxing Day 26 Dec.

Listings & tickets

The monthly English-language Time Out Amsterdam magazine provides previews and what’s on listings for festival and events. Copies are available in many good book shops and newsagent in Amsterdam.

The AUB (0900 0191, www.aub.nl) and the Amsterdam Tourist Board (0900 400 4040) list many upcoming events.

Major musical events are scattered throughout the country from April to September, and many are completely free; check www.festivalinfo.nl for locations and line-ups.

Our listings

While every effort and care has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this guide, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors it may contain. Before you go out of your way, we strongly advise you to phone ahead and check the particulars.