Sampeng's oldest market is losing some charm, but remains an epic alley crammed with bric-a-brac, costume accoutrements, honking motorbikes, smoky quarters and shouting hawkers. It is best tackled in sections. Out east you'll discover accessories-ville. Midway is miscellany, with ceramics, monks' bowls, Chinese lanterns, kids' shoes and wrapping paper. West of Thanon Ratchawong is fabric, from jeans and fatigues to chiffon. At the Mahachai end are blankets, sarongs, buttons and laces.