The Miami has seen better days, but has retro motel cachet (check out the pale blue pool) and large, functional, if somewhat on the plain side, rooms. There...

Legendary late-night food in the form of khao man kai, a Hainanese trader dish of steamed chicken, pinguid rice and broth offset by hits of ginger and...

The area behind Wat Chanasongkhram risks becoming a cheap drinking substitute for Khao San refugees, but its old tranquillity remains intact at this tidy,...

Old Bangkok is young at heart, with local students munching here in an upstairs room that looks more art studio than eaterie. Chill here on ice-cream, beer...

Of the many old Chinese-style hotels off Thanon Samsen, this pastel-coloured one is the plum. Rooms are well decked out, with clunky old wooden furniture...

Built in 1899, this food market was renovated in 2006 for safety and sanitation, but much charm remains. In the trading hall stands a Chinese shrine, around...

In Chinatown's main drag, the Empire is clean, cheap and comfortable, with well-equipped rooms, and carpets and wallpaper straight out of a Wong Kar Wai...

This survivor of the original RCA explosion looks like a cowboy saloon stranded in ancient China. 'Songs for Life' (Thai blues) fans flock here for live...

This is the place to tuck into duck and goose served straight up with rice noodles and condiments.

Feeling creative? Guests at this bohemian waterfront 'art guesthouse' are invited to paint and re-decorate their rooms. Some have. Concealed within the...

Young creatives and Khao San escapees gather on the chilled-out roof terrace for spicy Thai food and views of the floodlit Golden Mount and antics outside...

The makeover of the crisply styled lobby and hip Reno Café hangout has not yet reached all of the rooms, but they're still clean and great value. The pick...

The women here are expert at patting, flipping, filling and plaiting roti. This flatbread comes stuffed (with chicken, egg, veggies) and drizzled (with...

Pahurat teems with small curry operations, most famously Royal India. Photos of Thai politicians adorn the walls, although as Thais tend to dislike Indian...