Barcelona

The complete Barcelona gig guide plus our pick of the latest albums & singles.

 
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Introduction

According to every poll worth its clipboard, Barcelona is the European city best loved by visitors, and to the current generation of cultural dilettantes and easyJetsetters it is almost impossible to imagine that it wasn’t ever thus.

This is the city’s triumph, and its own self-assurance is fortified with the quiet knowledge of how it got here. Over the centuries it has been buffeted by invading forces, fleeced by trade restrictions and strangled by autocratic central governments – and every time has bounced back prouder and more audacious. After the ‘grey years’, the interminable period between the end of the civil war and Franco’s dying breath, there was a huge zest for change, to move on to a new era. It stoked the desire to transform the city itself, while the Olympic bid and then the Games themselves provided extra incentive, not to mention cash.

 

The finest architects and urban planners were persuaded to take part in this vision. The axis upon which the project spun was the idea to ‘turn Barcelona around’ to face the sea, creating whole swathes of beach from virtual wasteland. Ugly high-rises flung up during the Franco regime were pulled down, derelict blocks razed to provide open spaces and parkland, and world-class artists and sculptors – Roy Lichtenstein, James Turrell, Claes Oldenburg and Eduardo Chillida among them -– commissioned to brighten up street corners. Along with the creation of the new Barcelona in bricks and mortar went the promotion of Barcelona-as-concept, a seductive cocktail of architecture, imagination, tradition, style, nightlife and primary colours.

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Helped, in large part, by the legacy of Gaudí and the other Modernistes, which provided the city with a unique foundation both architecturally and in spirit, this was perhaps the most spectacular, and certainly the most deliberate, of Barcelona’s reinventions; it succeeded in large part because this image of creativity and vivacity simply fitted well with an idea of the city already held by many of its citizens. Thrown into the mix were the core values of nationalist pride and a delight in traditional ways, from dancing the sardana in front of the cathedral, to wheeling out the papier mâché giants at the first hint of a celebration.

 

Barcelona’s love of eccentricity had already brought about a wealth of quirky museums (such as those devoted to shoes, perfume, sewers, funeral carriages and mechanical toys), to which more were added. Its handsome but grimy façades were buffed up, its streets renamed and its churches restored. To see it nowadays it’s as if the drab decades were just a collective bad dream.

      

27 Comments

  • anna_gy said...
    I'm visiting Barcelona real soon and would like some info about the city. Best sites, bars and restaurants from a local point of view. I also learn Spanish not for the particular occasion but because I like "la cultura de España". Do the Catalans bother to speak in castellano o no? Oh and if someone has any sources or websites to recommend about the political situation in Spain and the conflicts between Catalonia, Basque Country and Galicia it will be more than welcomed.
    ¡Gracias amigos! Posted on Mar 09 2008 12:30
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  • Lorna said...
    One quick thing... i came on this site to read about Barcelona, not listen to you lot bitching! Do something useful like recommend which would be best for a Spain virgin to visit - Madrid, Valencia or your precious Barcelona?
    Thanks Posted on Jan 19 2008 20:21
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  • Mal Macab said...
    Una mica trist tot plegat. All this "Catalonia is not Spain" is totally ignored by the tourists. Its fodder for the converted. The city has more to offer than a "Som millor" mentality. At heart there is not a whole lot of difference between Catalan nationalist diehards and Spanish ubernationalists just as the differences between Loyalists and Republicans in Northern Ireland are not as great as one might think. Too much of this "no som espanyols" business is as tiring as all the Spanish nationalist stuff that one has to hear. Enough said - leave the politics to the political forums. This is about the city of Barcelona. Good food and good beer whether you say please/si us plau or por favo or in any other language for that matterr. Posted on Jan 15 2008 11:31
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  • Gosher said...
    Thought this site/blog was about Barcelona, not the place to review or air our imperialist/nationalist propoganda 8<{)
    Lets get back to the subject eh! Posted on Jan 10 2008 22:11
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  • Nieves said...
    Exactly! "Being universal and cosmopolitan doesn't depend on belonging to..." neither Catalonia nor Spain! Spain isn't our gateway to anything, I absolutely agree! As well as Catalonia isn't! Fortunately there's no place I can call "home" because I haven't visited all the places I would like to visit before I can tell. My birth place doesn´t mean anything for me but I guess that's not your case, that's all. Posted on Jan 10 2008 19:23
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  • Martí said...
    Nieves, I'm afraid you're the only narrow-minded person around. Being universal and cosmopolitan doesn't depend on belonging to the Kingdom of Spain. Barcelona and Catalonia are universal on their own merits. Spain -and its ideology- isn't our gateway to cultural modernity. It might have been so, but now it's too late. Benvinguts a Barcelona / Welcome to Barcelona (Time Out too ;-) Posted on Jan 10 2008 18:55
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  • david said...
    Nieves, I completely agree with you, we don´t like borders either, we are going to a united Europe...but we want to go as catalans, not as a spanish... Posted on Jan 10 2008 10:12
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  • Nieves said...
    How can you be so narrow-minded? I don´t like borders, I don´t believe in nations but in human beings. I would love to have as many nationalities as I could, and speak as many languages as well. Posted on Jan 09 2008 13:05
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  • Jordi said...
    "Cerveza, pour favor"? NO!!!
    CERVESA, SI US PLAU!!!
    Remember that Catalonia is not Spain, please. Posted on Jan 09 2008 11:54
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  • Joan said...
    Great comments!
    I welcome you all to come visit our (your) city!
    Don't be like the Glasgow fans who got sooo drunk that they were annoying! Posted on Jan 04 2008 18:47
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