Darling of the Sunday papers, El Bulli is possibly the most talked-about restaurant in the world today; thus it merits a mention here, despite its location up on the Costa Brava. There is only a degustación, and diners must arrive by 8.30pm if they are to finish the 30 or so courses by midnight. Dinner is an extraordinary experience, occasionally exalted and frequently frustrating: diners are cossetted like guinea pigs, their reactions scanned by the maître d' and the great Ferran Adrià himself.
Open Mid June to Christmas only. Hours vary weekly, see website for details. Closed Jan-mid June
Set dinner €230
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