El Bulli

El Bulli review

Darling of the Sunday papers, El Bulli is possibly the most talked-about restaurant in the world today; thus it merits a mention here, despite its location up on the Costa Brava. There is only a degustación, and diners must arrive by 8.30pm if they are to finish the 30 or so courses by midnight. Dinner is an extraordinary experience, occasionally exalted and frequently frustrating: diners are cossetted like guinea pigs, their reactions scanned by the maître d' and the great Ferran Adrià himself.