Still the best of the various café terraces now sitting on the edges of the quiet, traffic-free Plaça Vicenç Martorell, Kasparo serves tapas, bocadillos, salads and a varying...
Plaça Vicenç Martorell 4The watchword is moody (not least among the waiting staff) in this stark, monochrome space, with punky artwork from celebrated graffiti artists. It comes alive with DJs and...
C/Pintor Fortuny 3Considered something of a classic, Bar Mendizábal has been around for decades, its multicoloured tiles and serving hatch a feature in thousands of holiday snaps. Really it's...
C/Junta de Comerç 2Just inside the entrance, on the right-hand side, of the Boqueria, is this essential market bar, run by Juanito, one of the city's best-loved figures. In the early morning the...
La Boqueria 466-467At the back of a beautiful old building converted into a health-food shop is this cosy little bar, where everything from the wine and beer to the milk used in the fair-trade...
C/Valldonzella 25A tranquil, elegant space with beige minimalist decor, and a display of cookbooks. From Bocuse to Bourdain, they are all for sale, and their various influences collide in the...
C/Junta de Comerç 28A doggedly wholesome place, all red gingham and pine and chewy spinach tart. The speciality is tasty focaccia with various toppings, along with the usual high-fibre, low-fun...
Plaça Bonsuccés 6After an overhaul in the kitchen, the delightful Cafè de les Delicies is now serving breakfast, along with tapas and light dishes in its dining room at the back. Off the...
Rambla del Raval 47Another to fall victim to the council's crackdown on late-night music, Dos Trece had to ditch its DJs and jam sessions, and instead has turned its cosy basement space into...
C/Carme 40The courtyard of the Gothic Antic Hospital is a tranquil, tree-lined spot a million miles from the hustle of C/Hospital. Terrace café El Jardí actually has two separate bars -...
C/Hospital 56Also open in the mornings for breakfast, and late night for drinking at the bar, Elisabets maintains a sociable local feel, despite the recent gentrification of its street....
C/Elisabets 2-4Not, perhaps, the most inspired tapas bar in town, with its overcooked patatas bravas, sweaty Manchego and vile loos, but Els Tres Tombs is still a long-time favourite for its...
Ronda Sant Antoni 2The chocolate milk drink Cacaolat was invented in this old granja in 1931, and it is still on offer, along with strawberry and banana milkshakes, orxata (tiger nut milk) and...
C/Xuclà 4-6Alongside its two menus, one European and one Indian, this colourful vegan restaurant has an inventive list of juices and smoothies, salads and filled baguettes. While its...
C/Hospital 74La Verònica's shortcomings (its huge popularity with young foreigners, the minuscule spacing between tables) are all but hidden by night, when candles add a cosy glow to the...
C/Rambla de Raval 2-4