InterContinental - © Elan Fleisher/Time Out
Before the arrival of the first bona fide boutique hotel, XV Beacon, accommodation choices for visitors were limited to old-school luxury establishments, homely guesthouses and bland corporate chains. That's all changing.
After 80 years, the much-loved Back Bay landmark Ritz-Carlton was taken over by Indian luxury group Taj in 2007 (see Taj Boston) (although on the face of things at least, not much has been altered beyond the doormen's livery), making its modern property Ritz-Carlton Boston Common the flagship. Meanwhile, the grande dame Fairmont Copley Plaza has been given a facelift. In line with global trends, there's a new breed of moderately priced, contemporary-styled properties, such as the Charlesmark Hotel and Hotel 140 and the Kimpton group's Onyx and Nine Zero. There have also been developments in the luxury sector, with the gleaming InterContinental on the waterfront and the Mandarin Oriental in Back Bay (www.mandarinoriental.com/boston).
Although the number of hotel rooms is rising by an average of 1,000 a year – bringing the total count for Boston and Cambridge to 21,494 in 2009 – they fill up fast. It's wise to book ahead, particularly in the traditionally busy autumn season, and during May and June, when over 60 college graduation ceremonies take place in the Boston area.
At the heart of the action, Back Bay with its lively dining, shopping and arts scene is the most popular area for visitors, and has a good choice of high-end and moderately priced hotels. There's a modest sprinkling of small-scale accommodation in the hip South End, a prime spot for dining, drinking and taking in some culture, and Beacon Hill, which offers a glimpse of historic Boston. Luxury names are lining up on the waterfront to take advantage of the harbour views and space freed up by the Big Dig. Reflecting the needs of its most frequent visitors – academics and parents of students – Cambridge accommodation tends to be of the guesthouse or chain variety, with some notable exceptions.
Fancy spending the night in a cell? It's a lot more appealing than it sounds at two of Boston's most unusual lodgings: the guesthouse at the Monastery of the Society of Saint John the Evangelist, and the luxurious new Liberty Hotel, set inside the former Charles Street Jail.
Run by an order of monks affiliated with both the Anglican and American Episcopal churches, the Italianate monastery is a short walk from Harvard Square. This is a place for peaceful reflection and spiritual renewal: many guests are on directed religious retreats, and silence is a strict rule. That applies even in the tiny guest rooms, which served as monk's cells for eight years before the main monastery and its beautiful church were built in 1936. Guests are welcome to breakfast with the monks in the refectory, but there's no chit-chat over coffee.
The white-painted rooms are small and sparsely furnished, and although there is one double room, the order of silence means most couples find it easier to lodge in separate cells. There are no TVs or phones, and mobile phone usage is kept to a minimum, permitted only in the common room or out in the garden. Well, you said you wanted peace and quiet...
The cells in the new Liberty Hotel, by the Charles River near Beacon Hill, have an altogether less tranquil history; drunks and assorted villains were once locked up in the tiny cubicles in what is now the bar. Built in 1851, the Charles Street Jail was a model prison for the times – but was finally closed in 1990... and subsequently reopened as a luxury hotel.
Needless to say, there's no trace of its former squalor. The airy 90-foot central rotunda, which houses the main lobby, is topped by a cupola that was formerly covered over, and magnificent, original floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the landscaped patio. Rooms are more comfortable than cutting edge, with pale, neutral decor, mahogany furniture and handmade patchwork throws. Luxuries abound, from plush bedlinen and Molton Brown toiletries to flatscreen HD-LCD TVs, wireless internet and VoIP telephones.
Whether you're after a more 'authentic' taste of local life or all the comforts of home in your own apartment, B&B agencies can hook you up with accommodation in Boston and beyond. Rates start from as little as $70 per night off-season for a single room with a shared bath.
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Bagging a reasonably priced room in Boston can be a challenge, to say the least – according to the latest statistics from the Greater Boston Convention & Visitors Bureau (www.bostonusa.com), the average is just under $300 a night. Prices may change according to season and do not include the 12.45 per cent sales tax. Note that, unless otherwise stated, breakfast is not included in the room rates.
In addition to the hotels in our listings, many moderately priced chains have outposts in Boston and Cambridge. Marriott (1-888 236 2427, www.marriott.com) has several branches downtown and beyond, including the remarkable Custom House in the landmark tower and the Courtyard Boston Tremont, housed in a splendid 1920s building.
Westin and Sheraton (1-888 625 5144, www.starwood.com) offer comfortable options in convenient locations downtown, and the Hyatt chain (1-888 591 1234, www.hyatt.com) has a downtown address as well as its unusual pyramid-style property overlooking the Charles River in Cambridge. More budget-conscious options include Best Western (1-800 780 7234, www.bestwestern.com), and the veteran franchise Howard Johnson, which originated in nearby Quincy, and has an outpost on Boylston Street in the Fenway (1-800 446 4656, www.hojo.com).
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Best value: the Charlesmark Hotel and Hotel 140 offer contemporary styling for travellers of moderate means, while the no-frills but central Hotel Buckminster is a great deal.
Hotel-room with a view: the elegant Boston Harbor Hotel and the InterContinental Boston sit right on the waterfront, while Nine Zero towers above Boston Common.
Old-school luxury: there's nothing like a grande dame – and the Fairmont Copley Plaza looks just as it should. It's no longer the Ritz, but Taj Boston remains as plush as ever.
While every effort and care has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this guide, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors it may contain. Before you go out of your way, we strongly advise you to phone ahead and check the particulars.
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