Locke-Ober (CLOSED)

Some things never change. All carved mahogany and polished silver, stained glass and tinkling crystal, the dining room here looks much as it did when it opened 130-plus years ago (a day you'd be forgiven for imagining some of the starched, bow tie-clad waiters must recall first-hand). Other things change for the better. Under co-owner Lydia Shire's watchful eye, the kitchen has ushered the menu into the 21st century: curry, wasabi, guanciale and ancho chilies find their place among the escargots, filet mignon, calf's liver and dover sole (although a few classics, including JFK's lobster stew, brook no alteration).