Published at 2:57pm
The Lyric Opera's The Pearl Fishers transcends its source.

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![]() | It happened here: A CTA Loop train falls to the street, the Chicago River springs a leak and a classic theater burns down. |
![]() | Notes from underground: If you haven’t walked Chicago’s pedway, you’re not missing anything. Except maybe the pedway itself. |
![]() | Downtown, broken down: The Loop, by the numbers. |
1. Coco’s Famous Fried Lobster
What to expect It’s not the coziest place: The blinding fluorescent lights nearly seared our retinas, and the door was kept open on a chilly day. But the sign advertises fried lobster, and that’s what’s on offer (along with greens, shrimp and other soul-food staples). And the radio is set to V103 —any lunch tastes better with Mary J. Blige.
Overheard “What is that, a hamburger? It’s huge!” a customer says, pointing to a large disc of meat on the grill. “It’s the turkeyburger,” the cook replies. “Damn,” the customer says. “I’ll take two.”
Order it The fried lobster ($10.50 small; $21 large)—it’s tender and still maintains a nice lobstery taste through the light cornmeal breading. The fries are great, too.
Skip it The perch ($5.75 small; $7.25 large) was more breading than fish. 426 S Clark St, 312-786-2070; Mon–Fri 11am–7pm; closed Sat and Sun—Joel Reese
2. Marquette Inn
The Loop is inundated with Chipotles and Potbellys. But with three locations within a few blocks of each other, this diner/bar chain offers another option—albeit a smokier, lonelier one.

Location No. 1 60 W Adams St
What to expect In the back booths, old women with smeared makeup stare into space. At the bar, a more lively after-work crowd talks about crappy coworkers, bratty kids, malfunctioning cars and other uplifting topics.
Overheard Tipsy guy referring to his wife: “Shit, we talked about it all fucking Saturday!”
Order it Bacon, ham or sausage, and fried egg on a croissant ($2.95). Heart-stoppingly good.
Skip it Chop Suey Special ($7.95). Would you order a hot dog at a Chinese restaurant? Didn’t think so. 312-368-8704; Mon–Fri 6am–8pm; Sat 6am–2pm; closed Sun—Tim Lowery
Location No. 2 300 W Adams St
What to expect The oddest thing about this one, which is the smokiest of the bunch (despite the no smoking signs), is that it shares space with Uncle Abe’s Deli.
Overheard Snappy waitress: “Hey, kid, don’t touch that. Your drinks are over there.”
Order it The massive hot corned-beef sandwich from Abe’s ($6.95 with soup and a drink).
Skip it Macaroni ($4). Its cafeteria-style presentation took us back to high school. Who needs that? 312-346-1292; Mon–Fri 6am–7:30pm; closed Sat and Sun—TL
Location No. 3 135 W Madison St
What to expect This is our favorite of the three—a quieter option that offers a retro
U-shaped counter space and the comforting hum of WXRT. There’s also a bar downstairs, where you’ll find high-fiving dudes watching the game.
Overheard “What’d I tell ya? I know a lot of drunks.”
Order it Madison burger ($6.95), which comes with grilled onions, mushrooms, and two—count ’em, two—cheeses (cheddar and mozz).
Skip it Shrimp and Perch ($10.95). Shrimp. Perch. Need we say more? 312-236-1111; Mon–Fri 5:30am–7:30pm; Sat 6am–2:30pm; closed Sun—TL
3. Beef & Brandy
What to expect This diner was designed in the ’70s, and it hasn’t looked back since. You’ll find executives having breakfast meetings. Lunch is busy, too. But the people who are here on the off hours and for dinner…if you know who they are, you may be the only one. There’s also a bar downstairs with karaoke on Fridays.
Overheard “I burped. What are you gonna do?”
Order it The breakfast special: bacon, eggs, potatoes and toast for a measly $3.99.
Skip it Dinner. 127 S State St, 312-372-3451; Mon–Sat 7am–9pm; Sun 7am–8pm—David Tamarkin
4. Maxim’s
What to expect This holdover comes from the era when diners had a touch of class: That means lots of mirrored tile and a mural of the Eiffel Tower. Waitresses almost outnumber the customers, but they’re oddly uninterested in coming to your table. And when they do arrive, it’s usually wordlessly, a cynically raised eyebrow being your cue to order.
Overheard “There’s not hair on my tongue, if that’s what you’re thinking.”
Order it The tuna melt ($5.45). For some reason it’s not listed on the menu, but the place does a fine job.
Skip it The omelettes ($6.50). No salt makes for a bland breakfast. 20 N Clark St, 312-236-7717; Mon–Fri 6am–10pm; closed Sat and Sun—DT

5. Boni Vino
What to expect A classic Chicago experience, complete with year-round Christmas lights, Bridgeportesque waitresses who know every customer by name, and a jukebox with everything from Dean Martin to David Allen Coe.
Overheard “Eyyy, how ah you?” “Fine, and you?” “Just mopin’ along, just mopin’ along.”
Order it Eggplant Parmesan ($9)—the slices are crispy and the tomato sauce is bright and oregano-spiked.
Skip it The mostaccioli and spaghetti ($7.75) are supermarket-caliber dry pastas. 111 W Van Buren St, 312-427-0231; Mon–Fri 10am–2am; closed Sat and Sun—Heather Shouse
6. Pittsfield Café
What to expect Tucked inside the marble lobby of the elegant Pittsfield building, this Greek diner has a regal air about it from the outside. Inside, though, it’s a classic diner, down to the orange-haired, red-lipsticked fiftysomething waitress.
Overheard From the host, who points to the restaurant. “You wanna sit inside?” Then he points to a few tables outside the entrance, which are still in the lobby of the building. “Or outside?”
Order it The spinach pie ($4.75), which arrives, inexplicably, with half a canned peach.
Skip it The lemon chiffon pie ($2.75) looks so good, we thought it might be wax. Unfortunately, we still thought that after tasting it. 55 E Washington St, 312-641-1806; Mon–Fri 6am–5pm; Sat 6am–3pm; closed Sun—DT
7. SkrineChops
What to expect A carry-out window with a log-cabin theme, likely with Mr. or Mrs. Skrine at the helm. Seasoned with a signature blend of ten spices, these bone-in grilled pork chops gained their reputation at the Board of Trade (where Mr. Skrine used to work) long before the storefront opened.
Overheard “No, really—that’s our last name.”
Order it Um, the SkrineChop ($7). It’s juicy, sure, but it’s the spice rub that makes it.
Skip it The rubbery grilled chicken ($7). 400 S Financial Pl, 312-566-9334; Mon–Fri 10am–3pm; closed Sat and Sun—DT
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