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        • The ’wich is back: First course

        • The ’wich is back: Second course

        • The ’wich is back: Third course

        • Saga of the sandwich

        • Here’s looking at jus


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      Photo: Nicole Radja Photo: Jessica Dixon




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  • Features

    Time Out Chicago / Issue 123 : Jul 5–11, 2007
    Cheap Eats

    The ’wich is back: Second course

    By Jake Malooley, Heather Shouse, Scott Smith and David Tamarkin

    Photo gallery: See more drool-worthy photos of our favorite sandwiches.

    Chicken boti paratha roll @ Mazza BBQ ($3.99) 
    After countless treks up and down Devon Avenue in search of a perfectly authentic sample of Calcutta’s famous street food, the kati roll (think Indian burrito), we came up empty. But once we loosened up on the rules—so what if they’re not made in stands on sidewalks, or the paratha bread isn’t toasted on a tawa grill with whipped egg?—we found some pretty great stand-ins for the real deal. The best is at Mazza, a Devon newcomer that rolls its crimson-stained grilled chicken into hot rounds of paratha; adds lettuce, onion and tomato; and finishes off the handheld meal with a dose of jalapeño-cilantro-yogurt sauce.  2226 W Devon Ave, 773-338-5566

    Pepito @ Irazú ($4.25) 
    It’s easy to see Irazú’s pepito sandwich as Costa Rica’s answer to the Philly cheesesteak. The gooey mess—a combo of rib-eye steak, sautéed onions, Muenster cheese and pinto beans on a toasted loaf of French bread—hits all the right grease buttons, just like Philadelphia’s famous export. So what does this Central American specialty have that the Philly doesn’t? A side of sweet plantains and a cinnamon-rich horchata to wash it down.  1865 N Milwaukee Ave, 773-252-5687

    Jibarito @ Borinquen ($6.95) 
    You can be sure the best thing about the jibarito at Humboldt Park’s Borinquen isn’t the bread, because there is none. Though the breadless sandwich has since made its way to other Latin American restaurants in the city, Borinquen rightfully touts itself as the Chicago home of the jibarito. After reading an article in a Puerto Rican newspaper about subbing plantains for bread, owner Juan “Peter” Figueroa piled steak, lettuce, tomato and garlic-mayo between two large, crispy, green plantain slices, and the locals have been lining up for the sandwich ever since.  1720 N California Ave, 773-227-6038

    On the side
    The pickle purveyor

    Photo: Nicole Radja

    Four years ago, Greg Frederick brought some of his homemade pickles to a few farmers’ markets, and since then the hobby has morphed into a full-time business. His That Pickle Guy brand now offers pickles and giardiniera—as well as a New Orleans–style giardiniera perfect for muffalettas—all brined and hand-packed by Frederick right here in Chicago. He’s particularly picky about selecting baby cucumbers from across the country according to peak season, but still manages to turn out quart-size buckets year-round. Grab one at any of a dozen suburban farmers’ markets (including Elmhurst, Schaumburg, Naperville and Park Ridge) or Chicagoland Whole Foods Markets, and add some homegrown tang to your next sandwich. thatpickleguy.com.—Rachel Skybetter

    Uncommon Breakfast Melt @ Uncommon Ground ($12) 
    This incredible sandwich is aptly named, not only because it obviously references the coffee shop/bar/restaurant/performance space’s name, but also because, for a place with a mostly vegetarian menu, this hungry-man option is an anomaly. Between the two slices of oniony black bread, there’s much to wake up to: two eggs over easy, organic spinach, black peppercorn bacon from Wisconsin’s Nueske’s smokehouse and a couple of pleasantly powerful slices of cheddar ale cheese.  3800 N Clark St, 773-929-3680

    The Mess @ Costello’s Sandwich & Sides ($5.65) 
    Never has a sandwich been more aptly named. In addition to salami, capicola, ham and provolone, Costello’s piles french fries and cole slaw (and tomato slices for the health-conscious) between two slices of toasted sub roll, making this the perfect sandwich for people who enjoy side dishes, but think it takes too much time to eat them. Though saddled with an ugly name, the fries and slaw make for a concoction that drips with sweetness. Costello’s brags on its “baked” sandwiches, which makes sense since this one cures us of the munchies every time.  4647 N Lincoln Ave, 773-989-7788; 2015 W Roscoe St, 773-929-2323

    $6.45, Brisket sandwich @ Smoque BBQ
    Photo: Jessica Dixon

    Brisket sandwich @ Smoque BBQ ($6.45) 
    In Texas, brisket is taken as seriously as oil stakes and defending Dubya. Unfortunately, not in Chicago. In fact, until Smoque BBQ opened earlier this year, you’d be hard-pressed to find the stuff outside of an old-school Jewish restaurant. Smoque’s version is the real deal, with a ribbon of fat running through the smoky, spice-rubbed slices to create two halves—tender and even more tender. Get the stuff slapped onto a briochelike bun; pour on a bit of the housemade, Western North Carolina–style sauce (vinegary, tomato-based) and you’ve got a meal beefier than The Rock. 3800 N Pulaski Rd, 773-545-7427

    Banana-nutella panino @ Ventrella’s Caffé ($7.50) 
    You won’t find this sweet treat on the menu board at Ventrella’s Caffé, a quaint, airy spot in Lincoln Square where the vintage furnishings and lazy pace recall Italian cafés of long ago. But the panino’s special-request status certainly doesn’t hurt its popularity; owner James Ventrella says regulars drool over this warm, gooey treat at all times of the day. Banana slices and nutella, spread between two perfectly toasted slices of bread, lightly dusted with powdered sugar...this creation deserves more than a special space on the menu, it should get a star on the sidewalk.  4947 N Damen Ave, 773-506-0708

    Shawarma @ The Nile ($4) 
    Not all shawarma is made the same—it just looks that way. As proof, we dare you to head to this 63rd Street dive, have them pile its infinitely flavorful, impossibly juicy shawarma into a pita, and then tell us it tastes anything like the dry, overcooked sandwiches you’re used to.3259 W 63rd St, 773-434-7218


    Previous | Next


    Plus:

    Saga of the sandwich: A brief history of the Earl’s famous invention.

    Here’s looking at jus: We dig into Chicago’s iconic Italian beef sandwich. Plus, how to order one like a pro.




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