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    • In this series

      • Articles
        • The ’wich is back: First course

        • The ’wich is back: Second course

        • The ’wich is back: Third course

        • Saga of the sandwich

        • Here’s looking at jus


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      Photo: Jessica Dixon Photo: Mandy Kaylin




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  • Features

    Time Out Chicago / Issue 123 : Jul 5–11, 2007
    Cheap Eats

    The ’wich is back: Third course

    By Jake Malooley, Heather Shouse, Scott Smith and David Tamarkin

    Photo gallery: See more drool-worthy photos of our favorite sandwiches.

    The Open-Face Turkey Sandwich @ The Depot American Diner ($6.59) 
    And now, for all the haters who think a sandwich makes for a wimpy dinner, we give you this: A sandwich that is as square a meal as any other. Go ahead, order it. What you’ll get is a plate of turkey, turkey-colored gravy and turkey-colored mashed potatoes. No, it’s not the prettiest thing to look at, but the gravy is thick and luscious, with a healthy dose of pepper, and it’s all that those juicy chunks of turkey need. So how is it a sandwich? Dig deep and you’ll see there’s bread, a couple of slices on the bottom of the plate to complete the tan-and-white color scheme.  5840 W Roosevelt Rd, 773-261-8422

    Chile relleno sandwich @ Isabella Bakery ($2)  
    For those who’ve never been to this charming Guatemalan bakery, here’s what you need to know before you order from the nice lady at their counter. The pastries look enticing, particularly the dessert empanadas, but if you’re like everyone else in line, you’ll end up (happily) with their tried and true chile relleno sandwich. It’s made with a crusty, fresh-baked roll and spread with mashed-up pepper stuffed with onion and pork. Perfection.  1659 W Foster Ave, 773-275-5237

    $7, Tineka sandwich @ Lula Café
    Photo: Jessica Dixon
    Tineka sandwich @ Lula Café ($7)
    This Logan Square eatery excels at making big things happen with seemingly simple combinations of fresh ingredients. And this is no more apparent than in the Tineka, for which peanut butter is blended with soy sauce and sambal, a fiery Southeast Asian condiment made from a variety of peppers. The spicy, salty spread is slathered onto multigrain bread and kept in check by cool and crunchy cucumber, red onion and a colorful bunch of leafy greens.  2537 N Kedzie Blvd, 773-489-9554

    Pernil con palta @ Latin Sandwich Café ($4.75) 
    For people like us—that is, people who sometimes use the meats, cheeses and vegetables in a sandwich simply as vehicles for the condiments—there is no better place to get our mayonnaise fix than this sunny spot. Because when you order from the Chilean portion of the menu, mayonnaise is a given, as a vital part of the creation (much like the crusty house-baked bread). And in this particular sandwich, it gets even better: The mayo is paired with luscious avocado and roasted pork, making for a sandwich of uncommon richness.  4009 N Elston Ave, 773-478-0175

    On the side
    Best rack around

    Photo: Mandy Kaylin

    As one half of Jerry’s Sandwiches, it’s Mindy Friedler’s job to take mayonnaise seriously. Since opening the build-your-own sandwich bar with her husband in 2002, the attorney has become a condiment connoisseur. Besides a selection of eight breads, 28 fillings and 100 combo suggestions, Jerry’s condiment arsenal has grown to 28 strong, including 15 that are housemade, like Southwest mayo, olive relish and cranberry sauce. “It’s trial and error,” Friedler says, adding she has her sights set on reaching an even 30 condiments. “We’re just motivated by the idea that we can do better than what’s at the store.” 1045 W Madison St between Carpenter and Aberdeen Sts (312-563-1008).—Jake Malooley

    The Jimi H. @ Jerry’s Sandwiches ($7.50) 
    It’s pointless trying to justify why we’d pick this one sandwich—bacon, avocado, Swiss cheese, tomato-basil relish and chipotle chutney—over the 99 others that Jerry’s prepares. (Though, to be honest, any sandwich that contains bacon is good with us.) So why are we bothering to choose? Because while some people are into options (such as the eight breads, more than 30 meats and cheeses, and 28 condiments Jerry’s offers), others just freeze up. If we didn’t make a recommendation, they’d never get to taste one of Jerry’s sandwiches at all.  1045 W Madison St, 312-563-1008

    Yucateca @ Bombon Café ($7.50)
    At this newish West Loop café, mustering the restraint to walk by the pastry case without ordering something should be the hard part. But just wait—arriving at the savory counter and trying to decide among the tortas is even harder. Let us help you: The Yucateca is the kind of sandwich that any pork-lover can get into. It sounds fancy—cochinita (pork stew), pickled red onions, habanero chile, avocado, cotija cheese and black-bean spread—but all those elements meld into one lightly spicy, vaguely sweet and incredibly delicious taste, not unlike a sloppy joe. In other words, it’s simple, and a sure thing. And if that doesn’t sound like a good lunch, you can’t be helped.  38 S Ashland Ave, 312-733-8717

    Falafel @ City Noor ($4) 
    For fans of the Egyptian way of making falafel, there’s a “wrong way” and a “right way” of doing things. The wrong way is to mash, roll into a ball and fry chickpeas. Most Middle Eastern restaurants in the city make falafel the wrong way. (And some of the time, the wrong way can be perfectly delicious.) So just imagine what the right way—that is, mashing and frying fava beans, which lend a slightly smoother, gentler flavor—tastes like.  4714-B N Kedzie Ave, 773-267-6777


    Previous


    Plus:

    Saga of the sandwich: A brief history of the Earl’s famous invention.

    Here’s looking at jus: We dig into Chicago’s iconic Italian beef sandwich. Plus, how to order one like a pro.




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