Published on 10/10/08
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At Maggiano’s Little Italy, more has always meant better. Massive menu, prodigious portions, lots of locations: For the past 15 years, that’s been restaurateur-chef Jonathan Fox’s mantra as he expanded someone else’s seedling concept into a nationwide chain. Now, he’ll get a shot at his own idea—an upscale pizzeria with an extensive wine program. Housed in the former Jazz Showcase, La Madia is sprawling, but its menu isn’t: a handful of antipasti, salads, artisan cheeses, handmade pastas and a gelato of the day. But the main draws are the wood burning–oven pizzas, which Fox says combine the chew of Neapolitan-style with the crispness of Roman-style. To wash them down, there are 2,000 varieties of wine (50 served by the glass) stored in a 13-foot-tall, glass-enclosed wine cellar behind the bar. 59 W Grand Ave between Dearborn St and Clark St (312-329-0400)