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Bonsoirée (2728 W Armitage Ave, 773-486-7511)
Once a storefront offering only a handful of ambitious prepared foods, this Logan Square spot has grown into a full-fledged, season-driven restaurant featuring “no menu” Sunday nights, when all-new specials are served, and “underground” Saturdays, reservation-only five-course dinners that change each week. The tiny restaurant’s capacity doubles come summer, when the back patio offers diners the same creative, contemporary American food but in a tranquil, romantic setting. Dim lighting and plenty of greenery (including an apple tree) make for a sweet setup, but you might still find it hard to focus on much aside from the morsels on your fork, especially when you’re devouring the grilled escolar on sweet-potato gallette (pictured).
—Heather Shouse