Published on 7/25/08
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Uberstein (3478 N Clark St, 773-883-0300)
In most respects, Uberstein is übertraditional. It fills its thick glass mugs with only Hofbrau brews imported from Munich, and its wood-beams-on-white-walls interior follows the mold of a Deutschland beer hall. The übersilly clientele spoils the international feel a little, but after knocking back a couple liters of beer out on the front biergarten’s awning-shaded picnic tables, you may find that the drunken behavior becomes quite entertaining. The pièce de ridiculous is the shot ski: four shot glasses of 80-proof German brandy fastened onto a snow ski are gulped down simultaneously by a group of friends after chanting, “Zicke zacke zicke zacke, hoi hoi hoi!” What is this— The Man Show?
—Jake Malooley