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      Photo: Peter DiAntoni Photo: Dane Tashima Photo: Dane Tashima




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  • Features

    Time Out Chicago / Issue 119 : Jun 7–13, 2007
    Road trip: Milwaukee

    Curds? No way!

    Organic eateries, trendy cafés, divey diners and fish fries prove Brew City’s grub is as good as its suds.

    By TOC staff

    Map it: Click here for a Google map of these spots, along with our other favorite Milwaukee restaurants, shops, bars and attractions.


    Barossa
    Milwaukee and “vegetarian-friendly” might go together like Carlos Mencia and funny, but this posh spot pulls it off. The menu offers plenty of vegan options, and all of its meat is supplied by local organic farmers. We recommend starting with the chèvre spread, a blend of tomato, goat cheese, artichoke hearts and piquillo peppers. Entrees include the hearty Belgium bison rib-eye and the ravioli en brodo, stuffed with vegetables and topped with Parmesan cheese tuile and grilled asparagus. The high ceilings, soft lighting and candlelit tables make this ideal for a little one-on-one time, but those looking to party can head upstairs for the occasional DJ nights. 235 S 2nd St, 414-272-8466.—Tim Lowery

    Comet Café
    Is this hipster haven a bar or a diner? It’s both: The U-shaped counter is Formica on the sunny, diner side of the room and becomes thick polished wood on the darker bar side. You can chow down on sandwiches (including vegetarian-friendly options like the Vegan Gyro and the Artichoke Melt) and fluffy omelettes on either side, but we recommend the smoky bar for brunch faves like the Comet Bloody Mary (perfectly spicy and topped with a bacon garnish) and the Beermosa (beer and OJ). Servers are disarmingly friendly, especially when reminding you that Sundays mean free bacon for everyone (with a $2.50 drink purchase). We’d consider driving up on a Wednesday just to show our support for Beard Night, where those who sport a “good, full beard” get a $1 off all drafts and $1.50 PBR tallboys. 1947 N Farwell Ave, 414-273-7677.—Laura Baginski

    Sobelman’s
    Photo: Peter DiAntoni

    Sobelman’s
    It’s word of mouth that leads folks to this burger joint, a meaty, cheesy beacon in a dingy area full of factories, deserted streets and rail yards. Word on the street is that this well-kept bar/restaurant is home to Milwaukee’s best burger (okay, Sobelman’s website also spells it out: milwaukeesbestburgers.com), and we’re inclined to agree. The Sobelman burger ($6.50) tops ? pound of Black Angus beef with bacon, jalapeños, grilled onions, gooey cheese and a buttery, greasy bun. Washing down that hot mess with a pint of Spotted Cow while sitting at an umbrella-topped sidewalk table…damn, can it get any better than this? Yes, it can and does when our waiter busts out a soccer ball and starts kicking it around in the street with someone who appears to be the cook. 1900 W St. Paul St, 414-931-1919.—LB

    American Serb Hall
    For Milwaukee’s quintessential fish fry, trek to American Serb Hall (5101 W Oklahoma Ave, 414-545-6030) on Wednesdays. Locals claim the glory days are over since it became popular, and if hordes of rambunctious kids and not-so-rambunctious elderly folks freak you out, head elsewhere. But the spot’s deep-fried Iceland cod served with coleslaw, mashed potatoes and buttered bread became a hit for a reason. Another great option is downtown’s Historic Turner Restaurant (1034 N 4th St, 414-276-4844), which has a bit of a touristy vibe. But the gigantic building is gorgeous, the wait for a table surprisingly short and the perch with a side of potato pancakes and a glass of local brew does the trick. Technically, it’s all-you-can-eat, so ask for seconds. For the younger set looking to have a solid meal then hit the bars, Hi Hat Lounge (1709 N Arlington Pl, 414-225-9330) serves New Glarus Brewery Spotted Cow beer tempura battered cod—perfect padding before beer guzzling or heading to the adjoining Hi Hat Garage for a band or DJ.—TL

    Fuel Café
    Milwaukee isn’t short on edgy indie java joints, but Fuel Café—Riverwest’s smoky, grungy social hub—is considered the granddaddy of them all. The café serves hot and cold sandwiches—with meat or vegetarian—including the famed Buttafuocco, a gooey, two-cheese faceful of baguette served with fresh tomato slices and topped with giardiniera. The coffee menu also holds a few welcome surprises: The sounds-gross-but-tastes-good Peanut Butter Mocha is worth a try, as is the Kevorkian Krush, a heart-accelerating hybrid containing a quadruple mocha tossed in a regular cup of joe. 818 E Center St, 414-374-3835.—MS

    Vocal local

    DJ Kid Cut Up
    Photo: Dane Tashima

    What do you like most about Milwaukee?
    Milwaukee really demands that musicians here are sharp and on point because, being a small market, [a performer] can’t let a single person leave without [making him] a fan.

    Who’s got the best sandwich in town?
    Is a gyro a sandwich? Oakland Gyros (2867 N Oakland Ave, 414-963-1393) is always killing it.

    Where can folks check out your music?
    I currently have three weekly residencies: hip-hop Tuesdays at the Uptowner (1032 E Center St 414-372-3882), ladies’ night at Hi Hat Garage (1709 N Arlington Pl, 414-220-9330) and No Request Fridays at Redlight (1758 N Water St, 414-272-2050) above Trocadero.—John Dugan

    Visit norequestsound.com for more on Kid Cut Up. To hear tracks from Kid Cut Up and other Milwaukee musicmakers, click here

    Hi-Fi Café
    The area along Kinnickinnic Avenue (that’s “KK” to locals) already has a sort of Happy Days time-warp charm. The Hi-Fi only furthers the 1950s illusion with a hulking, still-functioning Wurlitzer against one wall, and kitschy-cute midcentury tables, chairs and knickknacks filling the rest of the space. After more than a decade in business, the café anchors a bustling stretch of small shops, offering all the trappings of any great coffeehouse: Local artists’ work covers the walls, local artists’ butts fill the seats, and strong coffee is poured from early until late. The food exceeds café expectations, too: The breakfast burrito arrived spicy and overstuffed, the veggie and/or meat–packed sandwiches are served on crunchy baguettes and the decadent eggs Benedict come smothered in hollandaise sauce. One local recommended the egg, cheese, and mushroom–filled Georgie Boy sandwich as a surefire hangover cure—which you’ll need if you’ve spent much time in this hard-drinking town. 2640 S Kinnickinnic Ave, 414-486-0504.—Martina Sheehan

    Real Chili
    Okay, it’s a little grimy, and depending on the time, it’s frequently filled with loners or drunks. The few tables next to the U-shaped counter are shabby, and oyster crackers are scattered across the floor. If you’re a Real Chili virgin and simply ask a perpetually tired-eyed waitress for a bowl of chili (makes sense, right?), everybody in the joint will laugh. A lot. (Our tip: Just ask for the specialized dish you want by name—e.g., “Give me the Marquette Special,” which is medium-hot chili with beans on spaghetti.) But the 76-year-old spot is also the archetypal greasy spoon, and we understand why it was legendary Marquette University hoops coach Al McGuire’s restaurant of choice during the team’s ’70s heyday. You have three options: mild, medium or hot (the spicier the chili, the more meat it contains) and your choice of spaghetti, beans or both as a base. Our suggestion: medium with both, chopped onions, cheese, sour cream and a dash of oil. Just don’t say it reminds you of Cincinnati Chili. They’re touchy about that.419 E Wells St, 414-271-4042. Marquette campus location: 1625 W Wells St, 414-342-6955.—TL

    Roots Restaurant and Cellar
    Photo: Dane Tashima

    Roots Restaurant and Cellar
    Chefs Steve Landish and Jeff Bross aren’t just card-carrying members of the Slow Food Organization—they grow a hefty portion of veggies at their own farm in nearby Cedarburg. Culinary consciousness aside, the food is delicious, the vibe is buzzy and the boozing options are fantastic. Skip the main dining room (and the pricier menu) and head below ground to the Cellar, a dark and cozy candlelit room with a ceiling that is covered with sculpted metal vines. Here you can make a meal of affordable small plates like coriander-cured salmon or tempura sardines sprinkled with Meyer lemon shavings. Wrap up the night sipping a killer cocktail in one of the patio’s Adirondack chairs as you look out over the city. 1818 N Hubbard St, 414-374-8480.—Heather Shouse

    Coquette Café
    Contrary to popular myth, Milwaukeeans do consume calories outside of the beer-cheddar-sausage holy trinity. There are even foodies here, and their leader might be James Beard Award winner Sanford D’Amato. His Coquette Café turns out splendid, simple fare like an open-faced country ham–and–Gruyère sandwich on homemade sourdough bread, or a hanger steak in red-wine shallot sauce with a side of pommes frites. And if you want something like trout à la Grenobloise, the wait staff will drop a little knowledge for a fellow foodie like you. If you need an in, ask them what D’Amato recently served to the Dalai Lama. 316 N Milwaukee St, 414-291-2655.—Tim McCormick


    Previous: Five things you didn’t know about the Milwaukee Art Museum | Next: Cold blooded



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