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  • Museums & Culture

    Time Out Chicago / Issue 174 : Jun 26–Jul 2, 2008
    Good afternoon

    Milwaukee

    A new museum galvanizes our love of old Milwaukee.

    By Martina Sheehan

    HARLEY WORTH IT Cream City rolls out the hogs, polka, pins and brew.
    Photo: Martina Sheehan

    This week’s Good Afternoon takes a northern detour, to Milwaukee, as part of our summer road trips issue. On our trip to Brew City, we also got a sneak peek at the soon-to-open Harley-Davidson Museum, a $75 million ode to one of Milwaukee’s most storied cultural and commercial icons. Along the way, we indulged in other old Milwaukee classics—a Friday night fish fry, a little polka and a few rounds of bowling and brewskis.

    Harley-Davidson Museum
    In 2003, about a quarter of a million people gathered in Milwaukee for the 100th anniversary celebration of the Harley-Davidson Motor Company. Five years later, hog-heads are gearing up for the company’s next big milestone, a 13,000-square-foot museum opening in Milwaukee’s old industrial corridor July 12. The sleek, industrial-style exhibition space is part of a sprawling new complex composed of the company archives, a café, event space and gift shop—all set in 20 parklike acres along the river.

    Nonriders who enter wondering why the Harley-Davidson brand is such a big deal won’t have to look far: While gearheads fixate on mechanics, such as the difference between the roar of a flathead engine versus a shovelhead, laymen can marvel at manifestations of Harley’s other signature selling point—its style. Besides being the only remaining U.S.-based motorcycle manufacturer, the company wins fans for its custom-tailoring and design, as evidenced by a timeline of colorful gas tanks mounted on a second floor hallway like artworks.

    Photo: Courtesy of the Harley Davidson Motor Company Archives

    Nearby, in the center hall, a fleet of bikes representing almost every year from the company’s history lines the length of the museum, while galleries on each side display memorabilia. For us outsiders, some of the most interesting sights will be the customized bikes, or choppers, including King Kong (pictured), a 13-foot-long bike that a Pennsylvania Harley dealer customized by fusing two motorcycles, including their V-twin Knucklehead engines.

    We’re smitten by another feature in this section: a couple’s white bike looks like late-era Elvis on wheels, encrusted in rhinestone gems with decaled names—Russ and Peg—on both ends. Exhibits include bikers’ outlaw image à la The Wild One, and a collection of rare bikes and oddball Harley products such as a mod scooter and fiberglass boat.

    Tickets for the July 12 opening celebration, as well as general museum admission tickets, are now available on the website. 400 Canal St; 877-436-8738, h-dmuseum.com.

    Lakefront Brewery
    Our next stop is the Lakefront Brewery, for the great Wisconsin tradition of the Friday Fish Fry. With communal German-beerhall seating and a live polka band energizing a kiddie-filled dance floor (pictured above), the revelry of this dining experience is reminiscent of a nice Milwaukee wedding. We get to know our tablemates as we decide among perch, cod or blue gill—they’re all served with coleslaw and a choice of fries or potato pancakes. Kids’ items and nonfish options are also available. Beer connoisseurs should be sure to sample Lakefront’s tasty line of regular and seasonal beer specialties. We were tempted by the optional brewery tour, which costs $6 and includes a souvenir pint glass, four pours of beer and a coupon for another free beer at various local bars. Even when we’re stone sober that sounds like a deal. 1872 N Commerce St, 414-372-8800, lakefrontbrewery.com.

    Photo: Martina Sheehan

    Koz’s Mini Bowl
    Among its many monikers, Milwaukee is known as Tenpin City. Though that rep’s taken a hit in the past few years—only 38 alleys remain from a peak of 83 in the 1970s, and the U.S. Bowling Congress recently announced plans to relocate to Texas—the sport is still alive and well there. In fact, you can have your pick of classic ten pin; kegeln, which is German for bowling and involves nine pins; or mini bowling, also known as duck pin. We opt for the latter at Koz’s Mini Bowl; three short lanes at the back of a personality-packed dive bar are stocked with softball-size bowling balls and a team of teen pinboys who manually set the pins after each frame (pictured). Games are $3 per player, but you must tip your pin boy—there’s no inherent glory in dodging your killer benders. 2078 S 7th St; 414-383-0560.

    Photo: Martina Sheehan

    Kochanski’s Concertina Bar
    A trip to Milwaukee wouldn’t be complete without some live polka. Last summer in our Milwaukee issue, we fretted that Art’s Concertina Bar (pictured), a Milwaukee classic, would shut its doors forever. Since then, it’s been bought up by one Andy Kochanski, who has perfectly preserved everything from the year-round Christmas lights and great Eastern European beer selection to the dance floor and live polka players. The crowd is a 50/50 ratio of young kitsch seekers and dedicated old timers, all of whom seem to know the words to just about every oompah-pah verse. 1920 S 37th St; 414-837-6552.




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    • 23111 claude renaud Fri, Jul 18, at 11:35am
      I was in HD MUSEUM on 17 july 2008 and it.s big you could stay all day long for take time to read all the original archives write hand made since 1903 you must go to milwaukee for visit the museum ...I go back home in QUEBEC CITY and surely I go visit again another years

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