The squash soup surrounding a mound of braised short ribs is a bit sweet, but clever. Though the sausage platter isn't house-made, the crunchy, tangy sauerkraut is, and the Spanish-style chorizo and Polish kielbasa are tasty. Tender chunks of lobster and peppery bacon make for a good club sandwich, and the giant pork chop is not only huge and high-quality, but nice and juicy from a cidery brine and cooked to a perfect medium-rare.

Barbecue and swank spots are as odd a coupling as Diddy and Martha Stewart, but it happens, right? Not here. The tough, overcooked ribs didn't have a hint of smoke. And when an oily Livornese sauce (olives, capers, tomatoes, garlic) is drowning a naturally oily fish like salmon, the result is something near Exxon Valdez.

The next night I sampled the bar menu. The pizza was blah, the bison burgers dry, stir-fried lamb insanely salty, and the herby brioche-breaded oysters (while a great idea) weren't fried in hot enough oil to avoid being mushy.

But regardless of which menu you dig into, the brilliantly built "50 under $50" wine list and creative cocktails (try the Hendrick's gin-driven Qcumber and a port-prosecco-vodka combo dubbed Stained Glass) make your taste buds more forgiving of the menu's less-than-stellar moments. And while the kitchen isn't yet executing as well as BOKA, the joint is hopping.

The cavernous, wood beam–capped space is dark and sleek, with a stunning amount of seating options: a main-floor dining room, two upstairs areas, stools and booths around the bar, tables above the bar on what's called a "catwalk," and a lower-level "VIP lounge."

While I was asking the bartender just what determines who's a VIP, a frenzy erupts from a trio of blondes splitting desserts and pounding cosmos. "Look, it's Amanda Puck," one says, as the former Check, Please! host walks through the door. "I heard Billy Dec was here Friday with Jen from The Bachelor," another shoots back. Then there was some squealing, what I think was the word "hot," and then my vision was blocked by two loosened-tie thirtysomething guys descending upon the women with a smooth, "Can we buy you ladies a round?"

Amazing food or not, this place is going to do just fine.

Landmark1633 N Halsted St between North Ave and Willow St (312-587-1600). El: Red to North/Clybourn. Bus: 8 Halsted, 72 North. Dinner. Average main course: $23.