But it was still fresh on his mind a week later when I returned for a reservation made under the same name. Just as we were opening our menus, two glasses of complimentary cava arrived. I kept thinking, The gig is up, he knows this is a review, but everywhere I looked, similar courtesy was extended. Four women to our right were treated to after-dinner wines with dessert. Nony visited every table to inquire about each course. And none of it seemed trite, but instead unmistakably sincere.

Most diners were grinning like idiots from the experience—it’s tough not to. The dining room is gorgeous, comfortable and, like the vintage-ish chandeliers encased in mod screens, strikes a unique balance between classic and contemporary. The cocktails and the lounge they’re designed for are both slight twists on archetypal styles. The Sepia Mule uses ginger-infused vodka to add extra spice to the traditional Moscow Mule; the floor’s fantastic Art Nouveau tile will have you guessing if it’s original or new (surprisingly, it’s new).

And, most important, chef Kendal Duque’s food is solidly executed, seasonal, inspired and nearly always successful. If there’s any drawback, it might be that dishes seem too simple. But upon further inspection, you’ll see that Duque follows the classy-lady slogan “always take off one accessory before leaving the house.”

The result is that ingredients are minimally manipulated so that their quality can shine. Fresh peaches, creamy blue cheese and bacon make for a sweet-salty-smoky flatbread. Cubes of watermelon are topped with fennel slivers and a drizzle of goat-milk yogurt. A tiny jar holds lard-topped pork rillettes that alone seems fine, but when combined on grilled bread with fig preserve and toasted pistachios, becomes transcendent.

Similarly, a spoonful of chilled cucumber-avocado soup seems subtle, until bits of smoked trout and radish slivers reveal a more complex creation. The theme continues into entrées: Crispy-skinned wild sea bass is a perfect contrast to juice-packed heirloom tomatoes and tender young leeks; spice-rubbed roasted chicken gets cool pea shoots and citrus-spiked wax beans; and earthy flatiron steak is brightened by fresh arugula leaves. Only the sole vegetarian dish seems overly basic, the grilled rounds of eggplant and squash getting only a pile of buckwheat to keep them company. In fact, we accidentally left it behind. But Nony came rushing out after us, designer doggie bag in tow, managing to etch even the night’s lone forgettable dish into memory. —Heather Shouse

123 N Jefferson St (312-441-1920). El: Green to Clinton. Bus: 8, 56, 125. Dinner (closed Sun). Average main course: $23.