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It’s pretty clear when you sit down at Violet that the people behind it aren’t newbies. The polished room sports a plush little coffee lounge complete with fireplace , the bright cucumber-tinted walls are in sync with the daytime-only hours, and the menu is dotted with interesting options—from Creole Benedict to fennel-dusted sweetbreads.
So it’s no surprise to learn that chef Scott Reading cut his teeth at legendary spots Gordon and Le Francais and most recently was cooking at Avec. Here, he’s created a nice alternative to the maddening brunch crowds nearby at Southport Grocery and Julius Meinl.
That Creole Benedict is a stellar morning option, especially with a cup of the excellent Metropolis house blend. Just ask for the mayo-thick hollandaise on the side; the crawfish étouffée and runny yolk of two perfectly poached eggs are enough saucy stuff for the crispy polenta cakes to handle. The roasted vegetable–packed frittata is well-seasoned, with a tart little pile of arugula to cut through the buttery egg.
The wondrous egg pops up on lunch’s best dishes as well—poached and atop a salad of grilled radicchio and endive with lardons and delicious potato croquettes, as well as fried and plopped onto a basic-but-satisfying croque madame. The mushroom barley soup was fantastic, and though it was a daily special, I’m confident that its successors will be just as good.
