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    Time Out Chicago / Issue 158 : Mar 6–12, 2008
    Restaurant review

    Masouleh

    Rogers Park gets a lesson in what Persian food is supposed to taste like.

    By David Tamarkin

    6653 N Clark St between Wallen and North Shore Aves (773-262-2227). Lunch (Sat, Sun), dinner. El: Red to Loyola. Bus: 22 (24hrs), 151 (24hrs), 155. Average main course: $8.

    PHOTO: MIREYA ACIERTO

    The bright sprigs of herbs: parsley, cilantro; the cool cubes of rich feta; the radishes, a sharp contrast to the cheese; and the pita, soft and warm. As at all Persian restaurants, this classic combo arrives at the beginning of the meal, but at Masouleh, it’s what happens afterward that truly sets it apart.

    The mast-o khiar was, as described on the menu, just mint and cucumber in a housemade yogurt. Good, but not nearly as tasty as the oloviehé. Smeared on pita, the pâté-like spread of chicken, potato, pickles and peas had a delicious savoriness. The juicy Masouleh kebab (ground beef, much like a kefta kebab) was impeccably seasoned, with discernible notes of onion, cilantro and a little bit of sumac to add a bright, fruity note to the meat. And the khoureshte gheimeh bademjan, a succulent stew of soft eggplant, tender bites of steak and toothsome yellow peas, was absolutely addictive.

    So maybe the “baklava cake” our server treated us to—the only thing we were served that wasn’t made in-house—was a little dry. And maybe the “Persian tea” tasted like Lipton. None of that mattered. By that point we had learned what Masouleh was all about. And we left craving to learn (and sample) more.




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    • 7263 Eric Fri, May 30, at 11:02am  
      Delicious!

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    • 526 Teshera Mon, Mar 10, at 10:31am
      Is this near you? I'd like to check it out when I visit!

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    • 525 Teshera Mon, Mar 10, at 10:31am
      Is this near you? I'd like to check it out when I visit!

      Flag as inappropriate




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