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Published on 9/4/08
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A SATISFIED CRAVING When Graham Elliot Bowles took over the kitchen at Avenues in 2004, he thought he knew what he wanted: tasting menus and Champagne carts, five-hour meals and four-star reviews. But then he got it, and fine dining slowly started appealing less and less to him. Soon he wanted other things: Sufjan Stevens on the speakers, Converse kicks on the servers and an à la carte menu so casual that it even has a “snacks” portion. Thus, he broke out on his own, and this week he’ll open graham elliot. The food here may not look any less upscale than it did at Avenues (as the deconstructed Caesar salad, pictured, demonstrates), and unexpected combinations like duck confit with Budweiser foam or spring-pea bisque with carrot marshmallows abound. But with plates from Ikea, nary a tablecloth in sight and a price point of roughly $60 per person, the restaurant can’t help but be more accessible. And if that’s the kind of restaurant Bowles wants, we can’t wait to see what he comes up with next (we’ve got $5 on a hot-dog shack or ice-cream truck). 217 W Huron St between Wells and Franklin Sts (312-624-9975).
D Miller
Wed, Jun 04, at 06:03am
After experiencing Avenues where one could only go once a year. I have been able to eat at Chef Bowels own restaurant three times since the doors opened. I will bring family/friends/business associates etc. Perfect place for everyone.
