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Published on 8/29/08
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If you say you’ve never drunkenly, sloppily, shamelessly wolfed down a Flash Taco burrito or an Underdogg hot dog hours after the last sous vide this-or-that was served in Wicker Park’s more “respectable” kitchens, I don’t want to know you. Because if you haven’t, you’ve likely never left a Double Door show, a Sub T dance party or some random Buddy Gallery nonsense with a burning yearning for belly filler to soak up what’s been done and get you on your way to what’s next. Even today, in Wicker Park’s glut of banks and chain stores, there’s still some living left to do on the six corners, or at least that’s what the folks behind Skewerz are hoping.
True, this new carryout spot under the Damen El doesn’t do itself any favors by embracing the tiki theme in a decidedly unhippie concrete jungle or replacing the “s” in its name with a “z.” But beneath the cheese you’ll find a healthy alternative for late-night chow, ensuring that you can feel a bit less like crap when you wake up the next morning. And some of the grape-seed oil-slathered grub is actually quite tasty to boot. The grilled artichoke—while a challenge to eat—is one of the standouts, a massive starter with plenty of tender heart to counter the more time-consuming leaves and an addictive lemon aioli for dipping. The artichoke is one of only a few items that doesn’t live up to the Skewerz name; the rest of the menu is made up of skewered and grilled proteins or vegetables that are generally cooked well, lightly seasoned, and served with some sort of vaguely tropical sauce (red curry peanut, mango chili, passion-fruit glaze, etc.). The best of the bunch are the juicy shrimp and the lightly charred shish kebab of eggplant, zucchini, cherry tomato, mushroom and onion. If, like one couple I overheard while eating, you feel compelled to comment “I could make that at home” when you get the veggie kebab, remember that it is likely two in the morning and you aren’t making anything at home except a mess and, perhaps, a fire.
As with most fast-food spots, consistency was slightly off during the couple of visits I made (the five-spice filet mignon was a bit dry and chewy and the lemongrass tuna was rubbery), but the things that were memorable (subtly sweetened mango iced tea, crispy and greaseless yucca fries with banana ketchup) will likely lure me back again to feed a craving. And I can pretty much guarantee that if I should find myself in a postshow stupor sometime in the near future, an order of Skewerz’s graham-cracker-crusted sweet potato fritters will be the cure.
1560 N Damen Ave at North and Milwaukee Aves (773-276-9805). El: Blue to Damen. Bus: 50, 56, 72. Lunch, dinner. Average main course: $9.
