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  • Travel
    Time Out Chicago / Issue 176 : Jul 10–16, 2008

    Amelia Island, Florida

    With hints of Atlanta’s Southern charm and Miami’s happening nightlife, this northern Florida island has its own unique charms.

    By Liz Plosser

    Rocking chairs have a way of slowing the frenetic pace of life to a lazy, back-and-forth shuffle. So it’s fitting that you’re greeted by a dozen of them in the Jacksonville Airport, where you’ll land before driving 30 minutes east to Amelia Island, a 13-mile swath of white-sand beaches just south of the Georgia border.

    The chill-out vibe continues on the island, no matter what type of lodging you choose (bed and breakfast, motel and resort options abound). The most popular place to stay is the Amelia Island Plantation (888-261-6161, all-inclusive packages including golf fees, bike rental and tennis start at $500 a night), a 1,350-acre property overlooking the Atlantic that still manages to feel quite intimate and residential—partly because many visitors own homes on the grounds. Guests and residents get by on bicycles and golf carts or walk through roadside trails wearing swimsuits.

    Sporty types will find plenty of activities that will break a serious sweat in the steamy, Florida heat. The Tennis Center’s clay courts attract newbies and pro ballers—tennis greats such as Maria Sharapova and Lindsay Davenport take over the park in a women’s tour tournament every April. There are also four golf courses with some ocean views, plus the very reasonably priced Fernandina Beach Golf Club, a nearby public course (2800 Bill Melton Rd, 904-277-7370, $26 for 18 holes).

    You could enjoy a divine vacation without ever leaving the plantation, but you’d miss out on some of the island’s historic charms. It’s a short 15-minute drive to the island’s only town, postcard-perfect Fernandina Beach. Save the exploring for the afternoon, and start your day on a charter boat with Amelia Angler for a deep-sea fishing trip (904-321-5090, $450 and up for four hours)—and don’t be surprised when you come back to shore having caught a half-dozen 15-pounders, such as barracudas and kingfish. Your boat’s captain does a gratis cleaning, gutting and filleting so you can take your catches home.

    Back on land, you’ll be charmed by the Victorian homes, brick buildings and palm trees draping Centre Street—giving the old port a definite Charleston vibe. Tourists are enticed by an eclectic assortment of boutiques, restaurants and shops such as Sea Breeze (213 Centre St, 904-277-0607) and the Twisted Sisters (215 Centre St, 904-261-2501), which house treasure troves of kitchsy, ocean-inspired collectibles. For a predinner glass of vino, head to InterCoastal Wine Company (10 N 2nd St, 904-321-1300), a loftlike shop recently opened by a Midwestern husband-and-wife team. A few steps away, you’ll spot a long line of hungry diners relaxing outside of the Crab Trap (31 N 2nd St, 904-261-4749), a casual joint that offers an array of seafood grilled, blackened, fried or broiled. (FYI, the fried gator appetizer is delish.) Fancier digs and dishes can be found at the nearby Beech Street Grill (801 Beech St, 904-277-3662), a converted Victorian house that turns out rich, fish-based dishes, such as lobster pasta and crab bisque. Had enough seafood? Pablo’s (12 N 2nd St, 904-261-0049) is a boisterous Mexican spot serving up strong margaritas, while newcomer Espana (22 S 4th St, 904-261-7700) offers an array of tapas—perfect for a group meal.

    After dinner, a few bars are happy to quench the thirst of booze-seekers. At The Palace Saloon (117 Centre St, 904-491-3332), supposedly the oldest bar in Florida, you’ll find live music on Saturday nights ($5 cover) and a fresh batch of potent Pirate’s Punch on hand, should it take some liquid courage to bring you to the dance floor (the bartender told us the recipe includes three hard liquors distilled for a week and “cut” with fresh pineapple juice—yowza).

    There’s more nightlife back at the resorts. Between Fernandina Beach and Amelia Island Plantation, you’ll pass high-and low-brow options, from the pitcher-swilling, college crew that dances to DJ beats on the outdoor patio at The Surf (3199 S Fletcher Ave, 904-261-5711), which serves all-you-can-eat wings every Wednesday night, to a buzzing corporate crowd at the swank Eight Sports Lounge at the Ritz-Carlton (4750 Amelia Island Pkwy, 904-277-1100), where a cocktail costs as much as one at Violet Hour (but isn’t as good).

    Your trip won’t be complete without a meal at PLAE (80 Amelia Village Circle, 904-277-2132), an upscale restaurant on the Amelia Island Plantation that offers a “secret special” every night (seriously, your waiter won’t even give hints). Around the corner is the island’s “party in a box,” or the Falcon’s Nest. Revelers pack in for karaoke on Wednesday nights while DJs rule the stage the rest of the week.

    In the morning, should you find yourself hungover, fried from the sun or just zonked from too much tennis—no worries. The ubiquitous rocking chairs—dotting porches and storefronts—beckon you to reboot in the shade.

    THE TAB

    Two nights, two people
    Airfare $400*
    + Lodging $1,000
    + Meals $200
    TOTAL $1,600

    *Air Tran flies round-trip for $200



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