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Illustration: Andy Mora

Five great huevos rancheros

Where to sate your brunch craving for the traditional Mexican dish.

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Huevos rancheros rojos at Frontera Grill
Putting the Bayless empire up against humble taquerias is a David and Goliath move, but you’ll side with the big guy once you taste the oh-so-soft housemade tortillas, the orange-yolked farm eggs and the beautiful blistered tomato sauce. $11.—Heather Shouse

Huevos rancheros at ¡Salpicon!
One bite of this candy-red sauce and I’m almost convinced it’s prime tomato season. Another bite of perfect black beans, tender tortillas and over-easy eggs and I know it’s just prime ¡Salpicon! $10.—HS

Huevos rancheros at Mixteco Grill
The brightness of the tomato sauce, the garnish of queso fresco and the pliable pan-fried tortillas set this take apart from the pack. $8.—HS

Uncommon huevos at Uncommon Ground
Here, black-bean cakes covered in melted Chihuahua cheese serve as the base of the dish for a memorable twist on the same ol’, same ol’. $11.—HS

Huevos rancheros at Nana
Deep-fried tortillas make poufy, crunchy pillows for any-style eggs, refried pinto beans and sauce with a kick (on my visit, smoky chipotle ranchero). Add pulled pork, chorizo or soyrizo for $2. $12.—HS

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