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Published on 7/4/08
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1466 N Ashland Ave
Bucktown/Wicker Park, Chicago
| Map
773-252-1466
El: Blue to Division. Bus: 9, 50, 70 | Directions
Average degustation: $75.
After closing for a couple of months and skipping town for a break, chef-owner Michael Carlson is back, and he's determined to remind people just how he earned his nod as a 2006 Food & Wine best new chef. Not much about the cozy, simple, hip-hop filled room has changed, though there are some new faces in the kitchen and new dishes on the menu. Go for the full-blown tasting menu and you'll be rewarded with an insanely rich beer-cheese soup, smoked trout roe with pumpernickel blini, sumptuous venison paired with a white chocolate foam and a dessert called "meat and vegetables"—a sweet parsnip custard brilliantly topped with candied sweetbreads.
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Dinner (closed Sun, Mon).
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