Inspiration Kitchen (CLOSED)

The premise behind this stylish nonprofit restaurant is to serve as home base for a 12-week training program that gives fledgling cooks a way out of homelessness and poverty. But after one bite of what might be the best roasted chicken we’ve had in recent memory, we secretly hope the current kitchen crew stays put. Crawfish beignets are fluffy and generous on the tail meat; sweet-potato soup nails the silky-smooth essence of a salted, sugary spud; and catfish combats its muddy rep with a brilliant medley of red onion and pecans. These dishes (and the cooks executing them) might be gone by the time you get here, but with a modern loft aesthetic, BYOB policy and prices that can stuff two people for less than $50, Inspiration seems primed to be a permanent player. 3504 W Lake St (773-801-1110).