Nookies Edgewater

Considering the mediocre fare served at this mini-chain’s other outposts, it’s not surprising that its first attempt at a robust dinner menu is underwhelming. Offerings seem to be aimed at pleasing as many people as possible—pot roast, beef Stroganoff, roast chicken, burgers, wraps—while exciting no one. Its one surprise, an array of house-smoked barbecue options, disappoints due to a heavy hand with an overly sweet sauce. Bland, hotel-lobby-like decor matches the food, but there is one highlight: a light and creamy peanut-butter pie, the only dessert made in-house.