Pizzeria Serio

Scott Toth describes the pies that come out of the brick oven at this Roscoe Village pizzeria as "NeapolAmerican." In reality, the name is the only thing even slightly Neapolitan about it. The pies are neither thin nor thick, hovering in the arena of frozen pizza crusts, and they are neither distinguishably crisp nor noticeably soft. This results in a pizza that's just kind of there, which is fine if you're just using the stuff to pad your stomach. But if you're here to eat something of note, try the surprisingly spectacular mini calzones.