Where to eat in Venice
In a city as watery as Venice, restaurants are unsurprisingly oriented around seafood; to see what’s going to end up on your plate, check out the morning fish market at the Pescaria by the Rialto. Then try the produce in restaurants, or at a bacaro – the Venetian take on the wine bar, where you can consume tapas-like cicheti cheaply at the bar counter, or (in most) sit down for a proper meal.
Riviera (by the Giudecca Canal) or Alle Testiere (near Santa Maria Formosa) are two gourmet spots for some traditional Venetian cuisine with nouveau twists. You’ll eat well (and pay less) at Anice Stellato on the trendy northern fondamenta, at neighbourhood bar-cum-eatery Alla Palanca on the Giudecca Island (lunch only), at Ai Artisti in Dorsoduro or at La Bottega ai Promessi Sposi.
Bacari buzz with activity and can be an entertaining place for a meal, but tend to stop serving by around 9.30pm – so get there early. Al Portego is tiny and difficult to find, but the food is good and the price low (for Venice); trendy new Estro Vino e Cucina veers into more classic wine bar territory, but the choice of vintages is large and the menu interesting; Bancogiro is a long-standing bacaro by the Rialto bridge, favoured by a well-heeled Venetian crowd.
If you can’t face more fish, an escape is possible. All’Amarone near the Rialto has a wider-ranging menu, hopping Al Timon specialises in steaks and charming La Zucca serves meat and veggie dishes – a rarity in Venice. If you’re craving that most un-Venetian thing, a pizza, try Muro Frari.
Ai Artisti Dorsoduro 1169A, fondamenta della Toletta, 041 523 8944.
All’Amarone San Polo 1131, calle del Luganegher, 041 523 1184.
Alla Palanca Giudecca 448, fondamenta del Ponte Piccolo, 041 528 7719.
Alla Zucca Santa Croce 1762, ponte del Megio, 041 524 1570.
Alle Testiere Castello 5801, calle del Mondo Novo, 041 522 7220.
Al Timon Cannaregio 2754, fondamenta dei Ormesini, 041 524 6066.
Al Portego Castello 6015, calle Malvasia, 041 522 9038.
Anice Stellato Cannaregio 3272, fondamenta della Sensa, 041 720 744.
Bancogiro San Polo 122, campo San Giacomo di Rialto, 041 523 2061.
Estro Vino e Cucina Dorsoduro 3778, calle della Scuola, 041 476 4914.
La Bottega ai Promessi Sposi Cannaregio 4367, calle dell’Oca, 041 241 2747.
Muro Frari San Polo 2604B, rio Terà, 041 524 5310.
Riviera Dorsoduro 1473, fondamenta Zattere Ponte Longo, 041 522 7621.