Secret City - Wanping City

Head here for a fascinating if somewhat disturbing look into Chinese indoctrination

There’s nothing in Beijing that can convince you more of the indelible impression the Second Sino-Japanese War made on the Chinese people than a visit to Wanping City.

Located in Fengtai district, Wanping is a curious construction: a cloistered city (but no greater in size than a village) close to the Marco Polo Bridge which was first built in 1640 during the Ming dynasty to house military personnel.

But these historic structures developed a modern relevance on July 7 1937, when a minor skirmish broke out between Japanese soldiers conducting ‘military training’, and Chinese guards who were unaware that the night manoeuvres were taking place.

The incident – seen as a deliberate attempt by the Japanese to instigate an attack from the Chinese – would have far reaching consequences, escalating tensions between the two nations and ultimately beginning an eight year war that devastated the populations and resources of both nations.

With the turbulent history in mind, the sedate pace of life around the streets of Wanping is quite disarming. When you enter through the city walls, you are flanked on either side by charming (but obviously reconstructed) hutong homes, restaurants and the inevitable gift shops.

Life seems at a standstill, but at the centre of the 640-by-320-metre enclosure, with typically dominating architecture, stands a building that serves to chronicle every facet of the Second Sino-Japanese War.

The impressively named Museum of the War of Chinese People’s Resistance Against Japanese Aggression is an uncompromising look at the events that transpired between 1937 and 1945, and is perhaps one of the best places for Chinese people to get a fix of patriotism.

The expansive lobby contains the first of what turns out to be many remarkable sights: ‘The Great Wall of Blood and Flesh’, a three-metre tall bronze wall made up of squat and formidable Chinese soldiers.

The museum is an unflinching guide through the war, with graphic photographs, holograms and macabre relics (human skulls).

The vocabulary in the audio-guide [recommended if your Chinese isn’t good] also doesn’t pull any punches either: barely an introduction to an exhibit goes by without the use of ‘martyr’, ‘aggressor’ or ‘anti-Japanese’. The whole experience is emotionally exhausting.

Located to the south of the city, just outside of the wall, sits a serene sculpture park, home to 40 huge and imposing monolithic statues.

Statue part III, number six, entitled ‘Knives Lifted To Kill The Enemies’, depicts Chinese soldiers wielding machetes and wearing terrifying expressions. It’s an imposing place, and dotted around the outer section of the park are a number of black stone drums with Chinese script in white etched into them.

The stone drums explain the story of the events and are laid on the ground at all points where Chinese soldiers would have lost their lives around the city.

The message comes across loud and clear, and the whole thing is more emotive than many visitors will be used to. That’s just part of the fascination. Simon Fowler

The Museum of the War of Chinese People’s Resistance Against Japanese Aggression 101 Lugouqiao, Wanping Cheng Neijie, Fengtai district (8389 3163). Open 9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun. Free (ID required for entry) 中国人民抗日战争纪念馆, 丰台区卢沟桥宛平城内街101号