Going through the motions
Gabriel Suk demystifies the process of decanting
It all looks so glamorous: the careful opening of the bottle, the gentle pull of the cork, the slow pour of the wine into an elegant crystal decanter.
Is it really just for show, or does it actually make wine taste better? Wine is an organic product; as it ages over the decades, the grape skins and stalks gently separate from the liquid, leaving a pile of solids floating near the bottom of the bottle.
Decanting originated as a way to remove these sediments from the juice, though over time the idea of decanting a wine became associated with the need to allow the wine to ‘open up’.
The theory is that a wine stuck in a bottle for a long period of time needs exposure to air to unlock all of its hidden goodness.
Most people accept this as fact while a few ‘experts’ still argue vehemently that it is a pointless exercise; like most aspects of wine appreciation, it’s up to you what works best for your palate.
Yet not every bottle needs to be decanted. The rule of thumb is that most white wines – especially recent vintages – do not need, nor benefit, from decanting.
What is great about them is their youthful approachability, and extra time in the glass or exposure to air is not going to make them any fresher.
For older chardonnay or sauternes, decanting can help, but it is also subjective. With red wines, those that are light and fresh, such as a pinot noir, should not be decanted; likewise with simple cheap reds.
‘Big’ reds such as cabernet, shiraz, zinfandel, barolo and rhone wines, on the other hand, can all benefit from decanting, especially those with more than ten years of age on them.
How to decant
You need: ☛ Bottle of wine ☛ Corkscrew ☛ Decanter ☛ Flashlight
1. Remove the top end of the capsule – sometimes known as the foil – and remove the cork with the corkscrew.For older bottles the cork is going to be fragile and should be pulled slowly and gently. Place a candle or flashlight at the neck of the bottle and slowly pour the wine into the decanter.
2. Towards the end of the bottle you will notice sediment creeping up; just before it comes out, stop pouring. On average, a wine ‘loses’ 50ml per ten years in the bottle.
3. For older wines it’s important not to let the wine sit in the decanter for too long – there is a risk of it going bad. Hence it’s best to pour it into the glass early and allow it to evolve from there.
Tools of the pour
For great quality at a great price, you should really check out the basic Cabernet Decanter made by renowned glassware producer Riedel. At a modest 440RMB it is a fantastic investment for a great quality product.
While they have decanters available in prices ranging up to 5,500RMB, this simple and functional model should get the job done fine.
Available from ASC Fine Wines Seventh Floor, Block D, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang district (6587 3808; www.asc-wines.com)
Another good bet is an Eisch Classic Decanter for 799RMB. With its trademarked ‘no drop effect’ system (meaning the wine will not dribble off the side) and stylish design, this piece of crystal offers both form and function, and will fit seamlessly onto your dinner table.
Available from Top Cellar Kerry Centre Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang district (139 1148 6749; www.topcellar.com.cn)
If you aren’t ready to throw down cash on a decanter just yet, fear not – any old receptacle can get the job done.
It might not look pretty, but in terms of accomplishing the basic objective of separating sediment and providing some ‘breathing’ time, a water jug can do the trick just as well.
Just make sure it has been well cleaned before use and doesn’t have the smell of dish soap, or whatever else was in there previously, as this can seriously detract from the flavours of the wine.