Enoteca

Enoteca is like a dream come true for Beijing vinophiles. Tucked like a panini filling into a sliver of steps at The Place, Enoteca, which in Italy is a casual wine bar that serves small plates of food, is the Beijing outpost of two highly successful Shanghai wine bars.

The experience shows. Nowhere else in Beijing can you find such a variety of wines from all around the world and at such reasonable prices. The full wine list is available by the bottle starting at 98RMB and the by-the-glass selection will vary daily, at around 50RMB.

Enoterra Sauvignon Blanc from Chile is a refreshing, medium length wine while the Blackbird Malbec from Argentina offers pleasing berry notes and both are suitably light for summer drinking.

A short food menu offers diners a chance to nibble on tapas-like bites, salads, sandwiches and, lunchtime only, paninis.The food pleases as much as the wine.

Three salmons tartar (78RMB) is a disc of smoked, marinated and cooked salmon bound together with a homemade mayonnaise interspersed with onion and dill and a delicatessen discovery plate (148RMB) arrives as a cutting board covered in thinly shaven proscuitto, ham and salami, all still glisteningly moist.

Only the olives, straight out of a tin, distract from a spinach and proscuitto salad (48RMB) tossed in a light balsamic vinaigrette. Enoteca does, however, need to be introduced to a bakery such as Comptoirs de France so that the soft, tasteless bread can be replaced with a crusty baguette.

Not many wines pair well with chocolate but should the chocolate mousse be the dessert of the day (38RMB), don’t miss it. Its light and airy texture prompt one to wonder if it were made only minutes before. Chocolate cake (38RMB), as thin as a brownie, is too sweet but the texture, an ever-so-thin top crust over a moist base, couldn’t be more perfect.

Enoteca’s sleek décor combines with a casual ambiance to create a spot where you want to sit back and linger over a glass or bottle. Should you get bored with the company at your table, The Place’s central square, in full view, provides endless entertainment over the course of an evening. Service is adequate but hopefully, like good wine, will improve over time.