La Maree

True to its name (’the tide' in French) - its shades-of-blue décor evokes an upmarket seafood restaurant in Brittany and the menu, is nearly all straight from the sea.

La Maree is true to its name (‘the tide' in French) - its shades-of-blue décor evokes an upmarket seafood restaurant in Brittany and the menu, written in an aquatic blue font on white paper, is nearly all straight from the sea.

Pleasingly, the freshness of the seafood is apparent in every bite. The lobster bisque (58RMB) has such an intense flavour it tastes like concentrated lobster essence, but the rubbery abalone lurking below the surface only distracts from the soup. A salad of scallops (75RMB), so lightly seared they are still translucent and bursting with flavour, sits on a bed of grated celeriac mixed with a creamy dressing inside a bowl made of ice.

As main dishes, tiger prawns (168RMB), perfectly sautéed so they crunch, are placed around a base of creamy mashed potatoes so that their tails rise up towards the diner like water spouting from a whale, while the lemony saffron sauce balances the richness of the prawns and mash. A slightly overcooked sea bass (128RMB) on a bed of vegetable risotto swimming in sea of saffron broth creates a light yet filling dish. A complimentary dessert of a slice of lemon ice cream with a raspberry puree and diced fruit demonstrates that La Maree is as talented at sweets as it is at seafood.

Les Millésimes, of which La Maree is a part (see Meli Melo), directly imports over 100 wines, so offers bottles impossible to find in other Beijing venues, including whites that match well with the seafood. Unfortunately wine by the glass is currently not an option. Staff are attentive and courteous. The one disappointment at La Maree is the view. Keep your eye on the food and you may not even notice the adjacent building site. PS

La Maree Second Floor, Les Millésimes, 16 Yonganli, Chaoyang district (tel 8521 9988). Open 11am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm daily. Meal for two 450RMB.