Asakuma

Not only does Asakuma offer rolls with combinations and flavours more Californian than Japanese, but the perky staff makes one wonder if they've been poached from Hatsune owner Alan Wong's territory.

Watch out Hatsune, Asakuma is treading on your turf. Not only does Asakuma offer rolls with combinations and flavours more Californian than Japanese, but the perky staff makes one wonder if they've been poached from Hatsune owner Alan Wong's territory.

Unfortunately, Asakuma's food falls slightly short of Hatsune's standards. The menu covers sushi, sashimi and teppanyaki as well as simple Japanese fare such as donkatsu (a pork cutlet). Salmon sashimi (60RMB) contains enough fat to taste good but isn't rich enough to be great, while futomaki (55RMB lunch special), a roll of eel, egg and crab, is so loosely rolled its filling falls out and the components' flavours fail to form a cohesive whole. Copious chillies added to a generous lobster roll (58RMB lunch special) overwhelm the lobster's delicate flavour and requires eating a handful of edamame (15RMB) to extinguish the heat. A Beijing Olympic roll (RMB55), rice and seaweed wrapped around a tempura prawn with finely chopped tuna on top, wouldn't impress a BOCOG official. The ingredients have little flavour and neither the swirls of chilli oil or sauce that resembles thousand-island dressing help.

Lovers of lime green will adore Asakuma's sushi bar. The neon hue that covers the comfy bar chairs is electrified against the bar's tiny purple tiles, but beyond this area the décor unwinds into a mishmash of conflicting styles amongst the lighting, tables and chairs. It's not fine Japanese dining, but Asakuma's lunch specials are a steal. They start at 55RMB and include miso soup and a small salad. Sake costs from 68RMB per bottle and upward. PS

Asakuma Second Floor, Vantone Centre, 6 Chaoyangmennei Dajie, Chaoyang district (tel 5907 1395). Open daily 11am-10pm. Meal for two 250RMB.