Baoyue Chuping

Baoyue Chuping seems too good to be true. Hidden in a hutong north of the Drum Tower, this small courtyard restaurant serves up generous portions of simple, delicious and inexpensive fare. Inside the entrance stands an altar where a golden Buddha sits adorned with fresh oranges and glowing incense, which, along with the boxing bag hanging next to it, evoke a homey atmosphere. A narrow courtyard covered in corrugated plastic leads to a humble dining room and plastic flowers add a ray of colour.

Although the waiter explains that the restaurant's speciality is Beijing fare, Anhui and Cantonese specialities dominate the two Mandarin menus. An English menu, while offering sufficient choice, leaves out cold dishes listed on the other menus so a diner must read Mandarin to order these. Jiangban sansi (7RMB) is a cold dish of finely julienned bright pink xinlimei (a type of radish), carrot and green pepper tossed with dried chillies and an invisible yet potent vinaigrette featuring Sichuan peppercorns. Another cold dish of shuangban mu'er (12RMB) combines crunchy cloud ear mushrooms with thin slices of fiery bird's eye chillies and dark rice vinegar. In neither dish does the spiciness overpower the fresh flavours.

Deep-fried pumpkin with preserved egg yolk (22RMB) interplays the former's sweetness with the latter's saltiness without being the least bit greasy, while the braised pork belly with preserved vegetables (24RMB) juxtaposes the rich layers of fat between the meat with the tang of the preserved vegetables - a delicious dish but not for cholesterol-counters. Fried paste noodle Beijing style (8RMB) is a satisfying version of the classic Beijing dish zhajiang mian. A small bowl of plain noodles are brought to the table and a diner adds as much of the thick sauce and julienned vegetables as suits their taste. The only disappointment, besides the absence of other customers, is the sautéed sliced fish with liquor (38RMB), which sags under too much oil and too many flavourless peas. PS

Bao Yue Chu Pin 19 Tang Gong Hutong (on south side of Luce), Jiu Gulou Dajie, Dongcheng district (tel 6404 0722). Open 9.30am-2pm, 4.30-9.30pm daily. Meal for two 100RMB.