Vegetarian Survival

Vegetarians have a tough life in Beijing's non-vegetarian restaurants. In Chinese restaurants asking for, and getting, a dish prepared without meat doesn't necessarily mean the dish is meat-free.

Vegetarians have a tough life in Beijing's non-vegetarian restaurants. In Chinese restaurants asking for, and getting, a dish prepared without meat doesn't necessarily mean the dish is meat-free. Chicken bullion granules or pork fat are thrown into many dishes as additional flavouring. During a recent meal, Time Out's reviewer watched a baozi maker use the same spoon for both the pork and vegetarian fillings. The two were stored side by side in the same container. Additionally, many Western restaurants in Beijing do not offer meat-free main dish options so a vegetarian has to suffice with starters or a mere plate of vegetables.

Strategies to cope at a non-vegetarian Chinese restaurant vary. Chris Barden, founder of the Beijing Vegan Society (see Debunking the Vegan Myth), tucks into the wide variety of tofu dishes but stresses to waiters that he doesn't eat meat and if a dish arrives at the table with meat, he's prepared to send it back. Vegetarians like Will Freeman, currently constructing www.beijingveg.com to help vegetarians explore Beijing, are less rigid. He accepts what is given to him despite requesting meat-free versions. Some vegetarians, when confronted with a waiter who doesn't understand the concept ‘I don't eat meat', say they are Buddhist. True or not, it helps bridge the communication hurdle.

History

Although Chinese vegetarianism is closely associated with Buddhism, it predates the religion's arrival in China. During the Zhou Dynasty (11BC to 221BC), rulers abstained from meat, alcohol and women before making sacrifices to the heavens or ancestors. The Northern Wei Emperor Xiao Yan (502-549AD) converted from Daoism to Buddhism and promoted a vegetarian diet for Buddhists. Towards the end of his reign, Jia Sixie wrote Essential Skills for the Daily Life of the People, considered China's first cookery book, which includes a chapter on vegetarian food. It wasn't until the end of the sixth Century that the first Sui Emperor, Wudi, a devout Buddhist, prohibited Buddhist monks and nuns from eating meat and drinking alcohol. This edict stimulated the development of Chinese vegetarian fare.

Traditional Buddhist vegetarian cuisine includes mock meats, made by stripping wheat flour to its underlying gluten, then transforming it into anything from Beijing roast duck to sea cucumbers. In addition to meat, pungent roots such as garlic, spring onions, leeks or chives are also forbidden because they supposedly induce lust. Most vegetarian restaurants in Beijing have spiced up their menus to include chillies and Sichuan peppercorns, while still offering kosher Buddhist fare.

Where to find Beijing's best vegetarian food

Still Thoughts

Small and sunny, Still Thoughts is located near the former site of the Dafo Temple. While it serves up its share of mock meat cuisine, it excels at simple tofu dishes such as stir-fried minced tofu with preserved soybeans (23RMB). Beancurd sheets around a filling of mushrooms and bamboo shoots (23RMB) will satisfy as long as you disregard its gloupy brown sauce. Directions are essential: Head north on the east side of the National Art Museum of China. When the street turns west, continue heading north into Dongfosi Dongjie. Continue to Yuqun Hutong and turn east. Su Shi Fang is on the left. Although its English name is Still Thoughts Vegetarian Restaurant, the large sign above the restaurant says only Su Shi Fang.

18A Dafosi Dongjie, Dongcheng district (tel 6400 8941). Open 11am-10.30pm daily. 30A Gaoliang Qiao Lu, Haidian district (tel 6225 5792). Open 11am-9pm daily. Meal for two around 70RMB.

Xu Xiang Zhai

Eating here is worth it only if you arrive as soon as the buffet opens, when the vegetables are still crisp and the mock meats moist. Hot mushroom dishes are especially good, as is the black rice with ginseng soup. There's even a Sichuan style shuizhuyu made with mock fish. Individual hot pot is especially popular. An à la carte menu is available but the real deal is the buffet at 58RMB per person; both include water, tea and coffee. Its location opposite the Confucius Temple makes it a convenient place to eat.

26-1 Guozidian Dajie, Dongcheng district (tel 6404 6568). Open 11.30am-2pm, 5-9pm daily. Meal for two around 120RMB.

Love Vegetarian

As if the name isn't enough, on the wall hangs a sign with a ‘Loving Reminder' that one should ‘Live the easy and decent life'. A meal here will put one in the mood to do exactly that. The food, rather than suffering from the blandness that characterises so many vegetarian institutions in Beijing, tastes like proper Chinese food should: full of flavour, colour and texture. Spicy fried black poplar mushrooms (36RMB) exudes a meatiness that should satisfy carnivores, and bamboo shoots with needle mushrooms (26RMB) is equally worth ordering. Avoid the smoked fish. A small shop at the entrance sells mock meats and other vegetarian foods. Great location for a break from Panjiayuan shopping.

Songyu Bei Lu (50 metres east of Panjianyuan Qiao), Chaoyang district (tel 6731 2168, 6734 8110). Open 9.30am-9.30pm daily. Meal for two around 80RMB.

Baihe Vegetarian Restaurant

Hidden in a hutong north of Dongzhimennei, Baihe's courtyard ambiance is hard to beat. Take a book and you could easily spend an afternoon here. Choose carefully since certain dishes are delicious but others not. Crispy chicken (20RMB) with abundant chillies and black beans is highly recommended, as are the shiitake mushrooms (15RMB) and the buns stuffed with mock beef and pickled vegetables (5RMB). Avoid the spicy prawns and yuxiang qiezi. The selection of herbal teas includes a calming rose tea.

23 Caoyuan Hutong, Dongzhimennei Beixiaojie, Dongcheng district (tel 6405 2082). Open 11am-10.30pm daily; 50 metres south of Summer Palace's Xinjiangong Gate, inside Wanliuyuan, Haidian district (tel 6287 8726). Open 11am-9pm daily. Meal for two around 130RMB.

Elaine's Vegetarian Restaurant and Bar

This beautiful little restaurant sits beside Luoma Lake in Shunyi, hidden from the hustle and bustle of city life. Diners can choose to eat out in the garden during the summer months or inside the half-courtyard, where rural homeliness meets modern chic, and the wooden menus roll out to reveal countless options. Elaine's boasts over 100 dishes such as crispy duck (48RMB) and sizzling beef (42RMB) all made from non-meat products. The vegetable curry is among the best in Beijing, as are the crispy vegetable wraps, meaning Elaine's is a must for both vegetarians and anyone who loves good food.

Luoma Lake, 100 metres north of Luoma roundabout, Houshayu, Shunyi district, (tel 8048 5088). Open 9.30am-10pm daily. Meal for two around 200RMB

Pure Lotus

Over the years, Pure Lotus has repeatedly reincarnated itself, each time reaching a higher state of culinary enlightenment. The cooks transform simple ingredients into refined dishes that satisfy in earthy flavours. Mahogany rice with pine nuts, mushroom dumplings and a dish of daikon, kelp and tofu are three examples. The calming décor at the Lido branch is so beautiful, it feels like it could lead to Nirvana. Pure Lotus may be the priciest vegetarian restaurant in town, but choose carefully and a meal here needn't break the bank.

Third floor, Holiday Inn Lido, Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang district (tel 6437 6288). Open 11am11pm daily; Tongguang Building Courtyard, Changhong Qiao, 12 Nongzhanguan Nan Lu, Chaoyang district (tel 6592 3627). Open 11am-11pm daily. Meal for two around 200RMB.

Wosing Wosu

Come here for sashimi and Chinese delicacies like abalone made with mock meat. One bite of the spicy jia chang doufu (18RMB), house style tofu, and you will always want the meat-free version. Stir-fried cloud ear mushrooms and lotus slices (22RMB) is another favourite - the portions are huge. Furniture looks fitting for a log cabin and contrasts the waitresses' formal attire, while plastic highchairs suggest that even young children eat here. There's a small teashop in one corner.

61 Dianmen Dong Dajie, Dongcheng district (tel 8401 1287). Open 10am-9.30pm daily. Meal for two around 70RMB.

Gongdelin

Gongdelin is a Beijing institution. Opened in 1922, it's one of China's Time Honoured Brands and has a loyal following. It reopened last year in a new location, after a two-year closure. Golden Buddhas adorn its bright Qing-style interior. Mushroom dishes and stuffed steamed buns or baozi, are especially recommended.

2 Qianmen Dong Dajie, Chongwen district (tel 6702 0867). Open 11am-9pm daily. Meal for two around 100RMB.

Xiangyang Xiaozhu

A new branch behind the National Art Museum brings this delicate cooking to the centre of town. Wanton (8RMB) and mock beef sandwiched between slices of aubergine and drenched in a black pepper sauce (28RMB) are recommended. The choice of small versus large portions means that single diners can eat here and order a range of dishes. The food makes up for the lack of ambiance.

66 Meishuguan Houjie, Dongcheng district (tel 133 6622 1228). Open 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-9pm daily; Beisanhuan, west of Dazhong Temple, Haidian district (tel 8221 2104). Open 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-9pm daily. Meal for two around 140RMB.