Domus

Domus, grandly named after a Classical Roman home for the wealthy, deserves to be a must-visit on any Beijing culinary tour. Upstairs – in fact the ground floor – is a bar and café where American oysters are served alongside dishes like wagyu burgers and lobster BLTs. But downstairs’ fine dining area, with its set menu and a la carte fare, is as sophisticated a spot as you’d find in either London or New York.

No matter whether you eat upstairs or down, the food comes out of the same open kitchen downstairs where an impressive brigade of chefs is led by Jamie DeRosa (The Fat Duck and The French Laundry), whose experience evident in every bite.

In the café, a vibrant green asparagus soup (118RMB) is so fresh it’s as if the spears were plucked only moments before serving, and the crab cake floating on top has a zesty, lemon zing. Equally impressive is the succulent veal cheek (178RMB), served on a bed of chestnut mushrooms, broad beans and peas. Café portions may seem a little on the small side but the quality so high that there can be few complaints.

Downstairs, dining is more formal and each plate provides tantalising colours, textures and flavours. The six-course tasting menu (698RMB) entices from first to last and a highlight is pan-fried grouper served on stewed rabbit with creamy diced potatoes. For meat lovers, three medium-rare lamb medallions on a cushion of herbed lentils with carrot puree and wasabi oil comes a close second. The tuna carpaccio, however, fails and a dollop of ice cream on the asparagus risotto is just pure novelty. 

Mango frutti makes a perfect finale to the meal with a round of mango mousse on sponge cake, embellished with nut, chocolate brittle and passion fruit cream. This delicious dessert is so popular it’s also available in the café.

The attention to details is obvious and Domus has clearly put as much effort into the stylish, Italian, Manetti and Maxalto décor as the food. Staff are courteous and confident, and present that extra plate, bread roll or piece of cutlery almost before the diner realises it’s required. The only slip up is a glass of wine (from 70RMB per glass upward) that arrives halfway through the meal but the delay is apologised for and redeemed by the presentation of a complimentary dessert.

Given the prices, this restaurant’s name certainly fits, but eat here just once and you’ll want to call it home. Pam Shookman

Domus 115 Nanchizi, Dongcheng district (8511 8015). Open 2-11pm daily. Meal for two 1300RMB. 东城区南池子115号