Budapest

Tuck into real traditional Hungarian food

Hungary? Those wanting traditional Budapest fare or a taste of their Eastern European grandmother’s stew won’t be disappointed with this new restaurant in China View.

In fact it’s grandma’s wood chalet that we’re reminded of when we enter this restaurant with its fireplace and pine tables, but a glance overhead makes us wonder if we’ve had too much wine – a set table sits above us, suspended upside-down from the ceiling.

Quirky décor aside, though, the meal gets off to a good start with a complimentary soft breadbasket and two spreads: a meat pâté that’s gloriously full of pork and crackling, and an eggplant-based dip.

A complimentary taste of goulash soup also arrives in an enamel bowl – hot and delicious with a beefy broth full of meaty chunks.

When our starter arrives, we’re pleased to be presented with generous slabs of glistening pink goose and duck liver pâté (49RMB) – in actual fact foie gras without the French pretension – and they’re oh so good. hortobagyi palascinta (39RMB), a savoury crêpe filled with ground chicken in a deliciously rich sauce is one of those appetisers that would also be perfect as a light main course.

Meanwhile, chicken paprika (59RMB) is, as it should be, a stew of tender meat on the bone with a drizzle of sour cream-like quark and a generous portion of spaetzle,tiny dumplings.

But the fried duck liver (49RMB) is perhaps something best left to die-hard liver lovers or old-school Hungarians. Here, it’s deep fried in a golden panko-like breading until cooked through and served with boiled potatoes.

The steak with onions (69RMB) is similarly flavourful, with a good consistency, and comes speckled with sweet fried onions and fried potato wedges.

However we’re given the evil eye when we ask for mustard and ketchup. It’s a ‘no’ on the ketchup, but the mustard is served begrudgingly with a wink. What’s not to be missed are the traditional desserts.

Chocolate palacsinta gundel, (39RMB) is a whopper of a stuffed crêpe, with a filling of pureed walnuts and raisins coated in chocolate sauce, while King’s Powder (35RMB), recommended to us by the waiter, is a delicious sweet fried spaetzle with powdered sugar and jam. Zhou Ruiting

Budapest Second Floor, Tower 6, China View (opposite the East Gate of the Worker’s Stadium), Gongti Dong Lu, Chaoyang district (8587 1028). Open 11am to 11pm daily. Meal for two around 350RMB. 朝阳区中国红 街大厦六号楼二层202室

The bill

Hortobagi (meat filled crêpe appetiser)....................... 38RMB
Goose liver pate............. 49RMB
Chicken paprika............ 59RMB
Steak with onions........... 69RMB
Palascinta Gundel.......... 39RMB
King’s Powder................ 35RMB
Glass of red wine (x2).... 70RMB

Total 359RMB