Hatsune

Try out the new location, new rolls, same winning formula

Alan Wong has a recipe for restaurants that work. The latest notch on his belt is a second branch of popular eatery Hatsune, this time in Sanlitun Village.

A nameless concrete entrance with soft lighting evokes an aura of mystique, but once inside, the décor is inviting – a cross between the modern and traditional, with Japanese lanterns and an arty mobile of a shoal of fish swimming overhead.

Once seated, diners get to choose their weapon from an offering of assorted chopsticks and a varied nightly amuse bouche welcomes you while you decide on dinner.

The agedashi tofu (15RMB), crisp fried soft tofu in a light soy-based sauce is delightful, while simmered tender bamboo shoots with wakame (20RMB) bathe in a sauce you practically want to drink.

If service can wise up and learn that a main course steak misoyaki (75RMB), sautéed tenderloin strips drizzled with sweet miso sauce,should not come first, then we’d be even more impressed.

However it’s of course the variety of innovative sushi rolls (average price 70RMB) that’s still the main draw here, with a selection extensive enough to accommodate those who don’t like raw fish.

A new discovery on this visit was the Clayton Roll (60RMB) a combination of sautéed shitakes, creamy crab and white tuna that’s lightly cooked and slips down like velvet. Meanwhile sushi and sashimi range from average hotate (38RMB for sushi) and sweet amaebi (36RMB for sushi) to wonderful uni (35RMB for sushi).

Think California, not Japan, and you’ll be fine. Perfection is the nori dusted shrimp tempura (15RMB); delicate and lacy, crisp and not greasy.

Unfortunately the soybean wrapped shrimp (15RMB), slightly tougher, lacks the fine qualities of her perfect sister, but gobo age tempura (25RMB), a large pile of crisp shredded burdock nests, is delicious and plentiful enough to share.

It’s refreshing to see sanma shioyaki, a whole salt-roasted saury (25RMB), on the menu and the quality is good. Though a complimentary mousse is offered, more elaborate desserts are nonexistent for now, but slated to appear when the kitchen gets a sturdier grip.

Despite the absence of a toilet on the premises (we’re not sure how Wong let this happen), it seems safe to say that existing Hatsune lovers will be delighted to have a more central venue at which to get their California roll fix.

And as for those who are yet to try the restaurant, what are you waiting for? There’s a reason that booking ahead here is essential. Zhou Ruiting

Hatsune Third floor, S8-30, The Village at Sanlitun, Chaoyang district (6415 3939). Open 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm daily. Meal for two around 400RMB. 朝阳区三里屯19号院南区 三层S8-30.