Luga’s Pho Pho

Stick to the specialities

Perennially popular late-night hangout Luga’s has decided to expand into Vietnamese cuisine with the addition of Pho Pho, a small eatery that now sits on its tiny second floor.

Décor wise, nothing is different from Luga’s – wouldn’t it have been nice to have added some Indo-Chinese touches to the place, if only to set itself apart from its parent?

Nevertheless, on our visit on a Monday evening, the place was packed, with all tables on the terrace taken up – in total that means about 30 diners.

The menu has a good mix of appetisers and simple mains comprising of pho, bun (thin rice vermicelli) and com (rice). Unfortunately we made the decision to start with a drip coffee that was disappointing.

It has none of the strength or the sickly sweetness of the authentic stuff, and would be better with more condensed milk. The iced version should also be served with a cup of ice at the side rather than have coffee dripped directly into it.

The goi cuôn (32RMB), fresh carrots, lettuce, bean sprouts, shrimp and pork wrapped in rice paper, is a good palate cleanser to kick off the meal. Neatly packed, it’s satisfyingly crunchy and the pork and shrimp add flavour to the greens.

It also comes with two dips: peanut and vinaigrette, though skip the former as it dampens the clean taste of the vegetables. There are seven pho on offer; five beef combinations (36-49RMB), a chicken (36RMB), and a vegetarian (31RMB), and each is accompanied by a plate of peppermint leaves, bean sprouts and lemon.

Lime would be more authentic. Sadly, on a separate visit, even lemon wasn’t offered. The pho dac biet, with beef strips, tendon and beef balls comes with rice vermicelli that’s cooked just right, with bite and generous pieces of beef, though the broth would benefit from more beef stock.

The chicken pho, on the other hand, tastes odd with its sweetish, chalky broth, despite the fact that the chicken pieces are moist and tender – passable if you haven’t tried the real thing.

Also on the menu are three Vietnamese specialities and frankly the only things worth heading to Pho Pho for. The snapper is brilliantly done. It comes steaming and wrapped in banana leaves.

Portion off the aromatic fish into fresh lettuce, add some chilli for kick, a quick dip into the vinaigrette and you get a warm, tangy and flavourful bite. According to the chef, more specialities will be included on the menu soon.

Despite its name, if you’re headed to Pho Pho, it might be best to skip the pho and get the starters and specialities instead. Then order rounds of drinks and people-watch from your prime position on its terrace above the bustling thoroughfare. Kenneth Tan

Luga’s Pho Pho 41 Sanlitun Beijie (behind Sanlitun Village, on the second floor of Luga’s), Chaoyang district (6416 5154). Open 11am -11pm daily. Meal for two around 150RMB. 朝阳 区三里屯北街41号