Mirch Masala

Dig into some great Indian food

The second branch of Mirch Masala has opened among a gallery of restaurants opposite Ritan Park. The new venue boasts a dashing mauve dining room with booths and tastefully restrained Indian decor.

Despite its Indian trappings, however, service is still typically Chinese – we try to surf the large menu undisturbed but the staff can’t stand to leave us alone in case we need anything.

The Palak rolls (15RMB), deep-fried with minced lamb, herbs and spinach, sound innovative, but the only detectable lamb is a veil on the outside with bread crumbs.

Dry and mealy, this starter needs a whole helping of lubricating mint sauce to get it down. The servings are big enough though; the Indian sampler (30RMB), meant for two, will feed a family of four for example.

We recommend the naan and parathas, but skip the onion kulcha – they’re wet and bland. Besides Indian basics, Mirch Masala offers mostly North Indian dishes with an odd scattering of Goan specialities.

Goan prawn balchua (35RMB) with a spicy sauce and a touch of vinegar arrives as a bowl of viscous brown sludge cloaking rubbery shrimp (with those annoying tail shells) and lacks vinegar and heat.

Meanwhile the bhuna adrakhi gosht (40RMB), tender lamb with cardamom, black cumin and ginger, is salty but good. For some reason though, declaring to the waiters that we like our food very spicy results in the dishes being muted to a medium level.

Kashmiri pulao rice with saffron, raisins, onion, almonds and fruit (30RMB), are a ’70s nightmare, with canned pineapple and day-glocherries.

But the baingan bharta (25RMB), eggplant with Anaheim peppers with sesame and peanut sauce, is tasty. Dessert is forgettable, the gulab jamun (20RMB) is mushy and the kulfi (25RMB) is icy and grainy.

Nevertheless, when the owner notices our melting kulfi, he graciously sends another of his own accord. Points forservice, but the replacement doesn’t help. Be wise and do not miss the masala cardamom chai. ZRT

Mirch Masala Ritan Highlife (opposite Ritan Park North Gate), Chaoyang district (8563 6304) Open 11.30am to 10pm daily; breakfast counter opens from 7.30am. Meal for two around 200RMB. 朝阳区日坛北 门日坛上街