Invito

Get into civilised Italian dining at Solana

More than a year since it opened, Solana is still an odd, atmosphere-less place.

Invito, however, is well worth a visit – an Italian restaurant with a great view, good wine, lovely food and excellent service.

Located in the south-east of the shopping complex, the modern, welcoming restaurant quickly removes you from the ersatz surroundings.

The downstairs area is styled like a lounge while upstairs is the place for a more refined, leisurely experience. Best of all is the balcony, which lets you dine while gazing across the lake and Chaoyang Park.

This isn’t your basic pasta joint either. Invito’s signature spin on things is to create dishes using black truffles. You’ll also be treated to a delicious amuse-bouche after ordering.

When we visit, it’s foie gras in thin pastry, which is followed by a selection of bread (and yet more foie gras). For starters, we opt for the Cannellini Bean Soup with Black Truffles (68RMB), and an Antipasti Plate (128RMB) to share.

The soup is flavourful, while the antipasti plate is huge and loaded with classic treats including buffalo mozzarella, parma ham, scallops, melon and the like – delicious and almost too big to finish.

The main course Carnaroli Risotto (98RMB) (again served with black truffl es) is good, but a tad too grainy in places; the pheasant (158RMB), though, is delicious.

Done badly this bird can be too tough, but here it’s wonderfully rich. If you’ve still got space for dessert we recommend the strawberry ‘Trilogy’ (58RMB) – The Godfather of desserts, it’s an epic dish consisting of mousse, fruit salad and a refreshing sorbet; all strawberry, and all delicious.

And while the food’s good, the service is excellent, which is something of a rarity in Beijing. The waiters are attentive without being overbearing, always there when you need them, but never there when you don’t.

The plus points extend to the extensive wine list, with plenty of choice by the glass. If you’re looking for negatives, the wait for our dishes was just that little too long (although the staff topped up the complimentary bread and foie gras unprompted), and the widespread use of black truffles is arguably a bit gimmicky, occasionally used without really adding to a dish.

Nevertheless, if you find yourself rooting around Solana like a truffle pig in a forest, this place is a real find. Adrian Sandiford

Invito 15-2/15-3 Solana, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang district (5905 6906; www.invitochina.com). Open 11am-2.30pm; 6pm-midnight daily. Meal for two around 800RMB. 朝阳区朝阳公园路6号SOLANA蓝色 港湾15-2/15-3