El Wajh

With a similar design to the three other restaurants already housed inside the stunning Face Bar complex, this evocative Moroccan restaurant starts with a number of natural advantages. Sadly, though, it’s a disappointment – the menu is too limited, and both food and service fail to justify the hefty price tags.

Things start off reasonably well with smooth-if-ordinary hummus (45RMB) and cheese cigars – cheese wrapped in pastry – with zesty mint (45RMB). All the while you can order from Face’s bar, so it’s a good idea to sip on one of the brilliant mango mojitos (70RMB) at all times.

The mains, though, are limited, with only Moroccan tagines available with a selection of meats. That wouldn’t be a problem if the traditional stews hit the mark – but when the lamb tagine (128RMB) arrives in a traditional pot, and its conical lid is removed, the meagre amounts of potato, sauce and lamb are a big disappointment. On our visit, the vegetable couscous (98RMB) arrives late and without the sauce that is supposed to accompany it – a bland and lacklustre affair, and not cheap.

Dessert, which is the same whichever restaurant you order from, is better, with the classic cheesecake (80RMB) decadent and tasty, and coming with a cute little cup of raspberry sauce.

The service needs work, with staff unfamiliar with the menu, and the wait for food is too long. On our visit, for example, the hummus arrived without any pitta bread.

El Wahj is set in beautiful surroundings, but it needs to raise its game both in and out of the kitchen if it is going to justify them. Simon Fowler