Argana Moroccan Cuisine & Tapas Grill

Argana is a more spacious reincarnation of restaurateur Youssef’s popular Moro, Beijing’s first Moroccan restaurant. At its new spot on Xingfucun Zhong Lu, the restaurant now occupies two floors, including a cozy bar and dining area downstairs, and semi-private spaces upstairs.

A two-week delay in the restaurant’s opening seemed to whet old regulars’ appetites, bringing in a full house during its soft launch. As with the old joint, Youssef’s authentic cooking and warm (although some would say over eager) service make a great dining experience.

The Moro salad (38RMB) is a healthily satisfying starter, served ina large bowl heaped high with mixed greens and jazzed up with walnuts, raisins, radish, and sprigs of rosemary. This is like an oasis in the desert for expats who miss eating raw vegetables in Beijing. A tapas platter (148RMB for seven dainty dishes) offers a variety of exotic tastes.

The roast fennel and asparagus, both topped with goat’s cheese, have especially nuanced flavours. When it comes to the main courses, you can’t go wrong with the tagines. The Moorish tagine (lamb, almonds and prunes, 88RMB) and the chicken tagine (78RMB) are both brought to the table bubbling with broth in colourful clayware.

The meats cling gently to the bones and fall away at the touch of a fork. Ladled over couscous, they’re simply heavenly. Pumpkin pudding (26RMB) brings a perfectly sweet ending to the meal. It’s light and airy, more like mousse than pudding, and sits atop a thin layer of caramel.

Whether you come here for a date, a business meeting, or a few rounds of wine and tapas, you’ll leave with the memory of a happy meal, especially if you like a chatty host. Qi Zhai