Huanghe Shui Shaanxi Mianguan

A simple place, east of the National Museum of Art and beside the Sanlian Bookstore, which serves Shaanxi-style noodles and dumplings.

For RMB 15 you can get a giant bowl of wonderful noodles in chilli sauce, or dumplings in hot and sour soup.

Roujia mo, the ‘hamburger’ that made Shaanxi famous, is pork cooked in aromatic broth and stuffed inside a baked unleavened bread.

It costs just RMB 6. The place is usually packed with local patrons who know good food and appreciate value for money.