Li Qun Kaoya Dian

Package tourists are shipped off to the duck-themed excesses of Quanjude, but this family-run eatery, operated in the Lis’ own little courtyard house, is the real thing. Li Qun looks rundown and in need of a fresh coat of paint – and in the winter be prepared to feel chilled because of the poor heating and constant draft coming through the windows. Nonetheless, the place is always full. Photographs of Chinese and international celebrities and statesmen cover the walls, a testament to the quality of the food. Li Qun’s ducks – which you’ll see lined up in the brick oven on entering – are tasty, roasted to perfection to retain some fat, and the meat is moist and the skin crispy. The restaurant is hidden deep in a hutong neighborhood. It should take about 10 minutes to walk there from Chongwenmen Xi Dajie, although there are several pedicabs in the area that can give you a lift for RMB 5.