Liu Zhai Shifu

This little corner of Lao Beijing is hidden 20 metres down a hutong, the only landmark being the two big red lanterns with the owner’s name in characters. In stark contrast to the quiet alleway outside, the place is packed to the rafters nightly – many diners are regulars – and unless you’ve booked one of the 20 tables, think about dining elsewhere. The Liu family have lived in this courtyard house for over 100 years, but decided to turn it into a restaurant nine years ago, serving classic Beijing cuisine at bargain prices. Don’t go if you’re on a diet – the trad repertoire includes madoufu (pan-fried mung bean pulp), zha guanchang (deep fried sausage accompanied by garlic dipping sauce) and zha gezi (deep fried fries).