Guo Yao Xiaoju

The Beijing Culinary Association named this small family restaurant as the best for private dining in 2005, and this is no empty accolade.

The food prepared here is phenomenal. Chef Guo Xinjun, an expert in Tan cuisine and a former chef at the Beijing Hotel, has prepared state banquets for US Presidents Richard Nixon and Bill Clinton, and Chinese leaders such as Deng Xiaoping.

Every dish is in the Tan style, a fusion of Huaiyang and Guangdong cuisine – light and of the utmost delicacy. Nongtang yudu, fish maw in rich broth, has a rich stock made from chicken, duck, scallop, and ham by double-boiling on a low flame, a Tan specialty.

Yasi danjuan, shredded duck with chives rolled in a crispy crêpe, is a perfect marriage of pungent chives and duck: wonderful. For most vegetable dishes only the tender stems are used, and they come poached and lightly seasoned with soy sauce.

The sausage is vinous and full of flavour – we’ve found no similar sausage at any Beijing restaurant. Finish up with freshly ground almond paste or peanut paste, or osmanthus-flavoured red bean paste.